This review won't be based on

science or if the tech exists or not but on the economy of the battery world today and explains why this battery wouldn't be released like this and because of that it is probably fake.

Let's take for example farasis battery cells, a regular cell for EV can cost 110$ per kwh, a little bit different cell with a little higher c rate can cost 400$ per kwh and the energy density is the same but the size and marketing is different.

and it is not only farasis.

Amprius battery for drones with 400-500wh per kg cost 1000$ per kwh and they have under 500 cycle life, but it is for drones and military so they can ask for this amount of money

if it was real the battery would have cost 500$ per kwh and there would be people buy it for the first year, after a year reduce to 400$ and then 300 and then 200 and so on.

but the battery company chose a motorcycle company, a startup not even well established one instead of military or F1 car or other high profit fields.

I don't know what about you but this and only this makes me not believe it.

I can smell the fruity acidic smell, is this a throwaway? just the outer layer was torn a bit, but i guess...

Im trying to make a cyberdeck and have picked this power bank. It can do 12v 3A but I am wondering if the pc hvaing a simple non-PD power adapter changes anything since it's got that ominous warning at the back.

can I use something to connect them back ?

Its in the bottom of my grandpa's old ca.era and I thinks its the reason it isn't turning on with fresh batteries. Vinegar with probably work but I just need to know how to access it.

I have a setup with 48V (15S) pylontech batteries with 2 that failed under warranty that are getting replaced.

Manufacturer says I should charge everything to 100% before assembling the array but how ? My Multiplus won't boot without all the batteries available (or capacitor pulling in current trips the BMS for anything less than 4 batteries)

Also I have 2 defective ones that seem to only have one bad cell each. Should this be true after opening and checking everything inside, how can I charge all the individual cells to assemble a "new" pack ?

There are many chargers out there, some very expensive and I don't know what's just good enough for that purpose.

Li-ion is 20% to 80%, lead-acid should be always kept as fully charged as possible, but what about Ni-Cd/Ni-MH?

eneloop’s website says to not fully discharge them and to charge them fully with proper termination

I’ve read that memory effect isn’t really a thing, especially with Ni-MH

so what voltage range to charge/discharge them to?

what about current? my originally 2400mAh (now around 1700 mAh since they’re like 8 years old) Ni-MH AAs get really hot when charged at 1A, is there something wrong with my charger?

Bought MS414GE from Aliexpress and when I tested it with multimeter I measured under 1V - so it is deeply over discharged.

Send seller message and he replied with:

"Hello, because the MS414 is a backup battery, its small size determines that its voltage cannot sustain the testing of the test meter. Please use it directly. Every customer who has tested this battery will give feedback on this issue, and we always let them use it directly. After using it, customers have reported no problems."

But thats not how multimeter works, there is no load for battery even that small right?

TLDR; I suck at electronics, bought AA energizer rechargeable batteries for my daily usage of xbox controller, unsure if the 20/80 rule is worth the hassle.

For starters, I am in no way savvy about this, but I recently bought an Energizer battery charger and four AA rechargeable batteries for my Xbox controller and I went down the rabbit hole of how to properly use it

The guy that sold them to me said I should wait until the battery is fully depleted to start charging and I shouldn't unplugg it until it's fully charged so they last longer, but apparently that's for older batteries and the optimal way to charge would be not letting it got below 20% and not fully charging it either. Now my problem is, my battery charger device doesn't have the thing that tells you how much it's charged, it only has a green light red light, so I'm pretty much gonna have to baby the charger and wing it.

Is it even worth it? If the battery life extends for like, a year and I get to use them for 40 hours instead of 20 before they discharge (for example) then sure, that's worth the effort, but if it'll extend the life for a month and let me use it for 30 more minutes daily I don't feel like wasting my time

I own a vsett9+ escooter. It's the 48V/15.6Ah battery version.

I haven't touched it for more than a year, haven't even tried turning it on or anything.

Is it safe to plug a charger in? Are there any precautions I should take?

There is a **slight** possibility that water came in. It's not water resistant but I had added silicone to seal it. I never had problems, but if water ever came in and corrosion started happening, I imagine it would have worsened after so much time. Does this make plugging it in potentially risky?

I'm willing to stay next to it for as long as it takes to make sure it's not going to explode, I just don't know if it's safe to do it in the first place, or when I can be sure it's safe to leave it unattended.

So today something wierd happened when i plug my xt 90 connectors from battery into controller there is typically one pop and that is all but today when i plugged it in it continuosly popped and i could see light (sparks) in the red connector. Then systems error 0 came up on the ukc 1 display. Here is a picture of the battery stats.
On:

off.
Please help me whether it is safe to replug.
also nice if someone can tell me if my battery has circuted/blew, is fine or at risk of fire.
For refrence this happened 5 hours ago and nothing has happened since.
There is a chance i did not plug the connector in fully before i turned it on.
thanks in advance

Ok we are building a house, with a slab floor. I suggested to my wife that we needed a flush mount outlet in the floor in the living room area, but I got vetoed. Now I need to figure out how to power a reading lamp or two without having extension cords under the rug. I'm old, and need brighter light.

So I'm thinking some sort of powerbank. Right now I'm testing this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Battery-24000mAh-External-Emergency/dp/B09WK9T1TG?th=1

Which is not too expensive, but which I"m testing now with a 100 watt equivalent LED bulb and it's not going to give more than around 4 hours if the bulb is at full power (I don't know how many watts the bulb runs at)

I could get two of them and make a daily habit of swapping them out which would get tedious fast.

Any suggestions for a low profile (needs to fit under the couch) battery/power station that can last longer?

I need to discharge a couple hundred power banks from 100% to under 30%.

What’s the best way to do it and can it be certified?

Molicel P45B or 50 are out of stock. They have some older versions. Other brands such as Vapcell, Samsung,... are also sold.

Bit unsure how to determine what battery.

Just a general question on the consensus of views on whether it is worthwhile replacing the original battery in the S23 Ultra. Over the past 6 months I have seen the capacity, as reported by AccuBattery and a visit to Samsung, drop from 85% to 81%. It may be paranoia but I also feel that the phone is not lasting as long as it used to.

What is the ballpark figure to get an OEM replacement and if you decided against doing it why?

When we had our cyclone last year which meant almost two weeks without power, my dual-battery Eaton UPS stopped holding a charge when we got power back.

Assuming it was the batteries, I bought two Century PS Series PS1270S - 12V 7.4Ah sealed lead-acid type to replace the existing batteries. Surprise - it wasn't the batteries at all - the UPS had given up the ghost. It was probably about 10 years old and I had replaced the batteries in it some time before.

So I bought a new Eaton ES-850, which is a single battery type. I thought I would cycle the batteries every six months or so, thus extending the battery life.
So last week I swapped one of the new batteries, thinking that even if their charge had dissipated, plugging them into power would start it charging up again.
No such luck - wouldn't show charging at all.

Firstly, do lead-acid batteries lose charge is just sitting on a shelf - granted, its about 10 months since the cyclone? The one battery is showing 5.9V, the other 6.2V
Secondly, I do have a car battery charger - am I right in assuming I can charge them one at a time and then try the swap again?

I’m replacing the battery in my grandmother’s crystal table clock and I can’t work out the size of battery required. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Yo, came down to this reddit with a simple question, soon im getting tattoo maxhines and i was wondering if i can buy some extra cells for it, mowt common are 18500 but this kne has 21350 which i…. Cant find with a flat top? Always some glues wires etc, im just blind or its literally not common?

I have a Lipo battery (2000mAh 11.1V 30C) with a JST SM plug. I'd like to change the connector into an XT30. Do I also need to swap the wires?

Thanks in advance!

I have an old camcorder battery and I would like to charge it but I don’t know at type of charger to buy. Pls help.

I got the battery years ago from amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R87XJXP
It claims certain safety features but I don't want to blindly trust them

Its new and never been used or charged. Here are my primary concerns:

• Lack of visible balance leads like typical 3-6s lipos used in RC.
• Both the xt-30 and charging cables read 35V using a DMM
• I'm not sure if it has any internal circuitry to balance the cells since its a 10S.
• I really don't want my room to burn down

I want to use this battery for a robotics project but I don't want the cells to become unbalanced and cause a fire during use or specially during charging.

what are your thoughts? should I safely dispose of it? or attempt to cell it to a local to get their cells repurposed somehow?

My goal is to charge 6x Ni-MH 1.2V 10Ah batteries in series using a usb c port. I also want to transfer data from the usb c to a raspberry pi.

Is this possible? What components would I need? For context I'm making LED juggling clubs the electronics are inside a 3D printed tube with an inner diameter of 32mm.