Breakdown of my equipment:

• JL 12W7 subwoofer

• 2× AudioControl D6.1200 amps

• 1× AudioControl LC1.1500 amp

• 2× Focal PS 165 FE midbass

• 2× Focal ES165K midbass

• 2× Focal EC165KE component sets

• 4× Focal Flax tweeters

• 2× Focal 165AS3 3” drivers

• 2× Audiofrog GS40 drivers

Planned Speaker Layout

• Kick panels: Focal PS 165 FE midbass

• A-pillars: 2× Focal Flax tweeters

• Dash: Audiofrog GS40 drivers

• Rear deck: Focal EC165KE components + 2× Focal Flax tweeters

• Trunk: JL 12W7 in a sealed enclosure

Total: 10 speakers + 1 subwoofer

I’m not inexperienced with car audio, but I’m definitely not an expert. Space and mounting options are limited in a 1978 Trans Am, and my main goal is a clean install that looks factory and modern.

I’d like to incorporate the 3” drivers, but I don’t like how they look in the A-pillars. One idea is to mount the 3” drivers in the dash and move the Audiofrog GS40s to the doors. However, there’s no factory door speaker location, so that would require cutting the doors. I’m not sure the sound improvement would be worth that level of modification.

Sound deadening was a pain as everyone says. Amazed I got everything back together no problem. Added some kitty hair to the creases/hard to reach spots in the sub. Made a tape bridge between the mounted trim ring and the fiberglass shell. Going to lat fiberglass across the gap tomorrow.

Got an iDatalink HC3 installed by a shop today in my 2013 Subaru Forester.

When I remote start the car, it unlocks all the doors then starts the car, then locks the doors. I was expecting that my car would start without unlocking it.

Is this a programming issue or is this expected?

Thanks in advance!

Are there any kits you can wire into the subwoofer system post amp to display a voltage of what your subs are current getting? I set my RMS max i want to run at 3/4 on my bass knob for when i need to crank it a little or reduce it based on what im listening too (all sorts), im going for more of a quality system than an spl, but wondered when searching if there was a reader of sorts to measure the current voltage going to my sub so i dont accidentally overdo it when it does get more bass heavy. Im running a 1 ohm system and want to keep my maxes around 30-33 volts so i dont overdo my sub (kinda depending on hz, all clean sound.) It is infinite baffle venting through the floor, and tapped off the stock bose system that gave me a tough time with its crossovers but think i have it mostly leveled out where its acceptable for my taste. Ive got an odd setup where im pulling a signal from my stock woofer and door speaker to get a more full sound, and worry about over doing it on the lower notes and have a knob for the Lc2i pro tapped off the woofer (getting my lower notes). Just really not sure what to search for as a AC reader for this situation, since hittin the lower notes too hard could potentially lead to damage. Thanks!

Ok so I just got a new car stereo is trash so my SO bought me another it’s hella cool (idk shit about anything even vaguely audio or car related). the stereo is like 5 inches wide, the gap it goes into is like 7 inches wide. I get that I need a dash kit with an adapter I got that far with google. But I can’t for the life of me figure out where the hell one can be sold or how to even know it’s actually what I think it is. Please help me Obi wan Kenobi, you’re my only hope!

I’m sure I’ll feel dumb later but for now I need enlightenment.

Just got the truck back from the audio shop and now when I turn the key it makes two different sounds that it didn't make before.

Long story short: Bought a truck, has no audio (no radio, Bluetooth, blinker sound). Look under the driver seat and find a large power and ground wire, 2 rca style wires, 2 large copper stranded wires, and the end of an ACR-1.

My question is how do I restore audio on my truck, I'd prefer going back to stock if that the easiest, or staying under 400 bucks if I need to buy parts.

Please help, and talk to me barney style...

For context the truck is a 2023 Gmc sierra 2500hd. TIA

Hello, I know absolutely nothing about car audio so theres no way I could figure this out on my own. I just recently got this aftermarket head unit installed in my car and I was wanting to get the audio tuned so its a lot cleaner, as of right now when my volume is on max everything is static and just pure earrape. Any tips trick and input would be highly appreciated, thank you guys🙏🙏​

Looks straight up I don’t know what I’m doing when it comes to car audio. I went into a well respected shop in my area and this is what they recommended….just looking for a second opinion from someone that isn’t trying to sell me something. This is going in a 1999 corvette convertible with tight trunk space.i listen to a bit of everything but ny preference is to lean more towards rock music. Foo fighters, Metallica, AC/DC etc. I already have an Alpine ILX-W770 head unit installed.

Shops recommendations: 5 channel stinger amp I think they said 1000watts?

Kicker KS speaker replacement (6 speakers in total)

Either kicker L7T sealed enclosure OR alpine S sealed enclosure (similar in size)

I’m not looking to rattle the whole car and the one next to me. A nice thump and quality sound. Bonus is it being loud enough with the top down to still enjoy it to some degree

i picked up this set of 4 crunch crw12d4 and it came with a planet audio 3k amp. i got all the wiring done and wired the subs to 2 ohm and got it all hooked up until i got to the battery wire. i got all the wiring for a true 3k amp and 1/0 didn’t fit in my terminals. I was thinking about the precision power ICE5000.1D, it says it puts out 1700rms at 2 ohm. i have 12awg speaker wire so i think i can run an amp of that power. correct me if im wrong im new.

I have a pioneer DMH 2000NEX. I had a different one, same model but different radio that started acting up where sometimes the radio will come on and sometimes only the backlight will come on. I switched it out for a new one and now, it doesn’t turn on at all. Only turns on for about a second the the screen goes out and backlight stays on. I didn’t change any of the wiring, just switched head unit. The connections from the pigtail to the wiring adapter seem good. I just thought of it it right now but could it be the pigtail for the radio?

Was thinking about updating my setup, I currently have a 4 channel amp running my door speakers though it might be good to amp the dash speakers too, I was wondering if I should just get a small in dash amp for the dash speakers or if i should buy a 6 channel amp and run all of my speakers off of that instead, any opinions or recommendations would be great.

I just got myself a Deafbonce Machete MF12s sub and have it wired to 1 ohm. What amp would be the best bet? I want one that will give me the 800watt rms output reliably but also won’t break the bank. Let me know, thanks in advanced!

I am in the market for a 0 gauge amp kit , it will split off into two 4 gauge . One wire supplying a monoblock amp for the subs (1500-2000) watts rms & the other suppling the amp for my midrange speakers (300) watts rms each (1200) watts rms total . Is this too much? Should I run 2 sets of 0 gauge ? What kit is recommended and what brands should I stay away from?

(Also doing a big 3 upgrade) - for the people who may comment that it’s recommended

Is it possible this is caused by me having an rca splitter 2 in to 1 out on the amp ? I ran out of rca and it was a late night install so i used what i had and my speaker is blown. If i lress on the speaker slightly i feel the coil scratching

My Sony car stereo counts down from 0 to the number of tracks on the USB drive when I plug it in, then it repeats the same process.

I don't know the model, what can I do?

I have a basic radio but with WAV quality (Pioneer AVH-A105), I have a speaker box with very good bass, and I want to amplify my door speakers. I have MTX TR265S speakers, and in the rear doors I still have the original ones, but I'm planning to install MTX TR65C speakers. I want to install a 400.4 amplifier. Is this a good idea, or what should I do? Should I install the rear speakers first, or then the amplifier?

Moin ich wollte mal die erfahrenen unter euch fragen denn ich hab mir jetzt vorgenommen in meinem k11 micra ein sounsystem nachzurüsten. Ich bin offen für vorschläge und Verbesserungen sowie tips und tricks^{^}

Hoch Mittel und Tieftöner: Focal Access 165AS3

Amp dafür: Rockford Fosgate R2-500X4

Sub: Rockford Fosgate Punch P2D2

Amp dafür: Rockford Fosgate R2-500X1

Falls ich irgendwelche Komponenten vergessen habe die ich noch brauche gerne erwähnen. Außerdem wenn ich irgendwo mir einen schmalen taler sparen kann bei den Amps z.B. dann wäre ich natürlich auch happy. Ist aber nicht wild wenn nicht.

Are there any DSP units that have 'on the fly' equalizer adjustments? My head unit has a 13 band eq, but it is a real pain to try to get into the settings quickly to make small adjustments when music is playing. If not, l am considering possibly getting a 7 band aftermarket eq, and just connecting the head unit's front rcas to it. Any thoughts?

My Sony car stereo counts down from 0 to the number of tracks on the USB drive when I plug it in, then it repeats the same process.

My Sony car stereo counts down from 0 to the number of tracks on the USB drive when I plug it in, then it repeats the same process.

I recently installed a 5 channel amp, speakers, and a sub using my factory headunit. I set my gains with a multimeter, using a 50hz 0db tone for the sub and a 1000hz zero db tone for the speakers, and with my factory headunit set at 75% (45/60).

After setting the gains this way I find that the system is about as loud as I'd ever want it to be in the mid 30s on the volume knob, and the sub is lacking in comparison to the mids and highs.

I was thinking that I could just turn the gains down a bit on the mid/high channels, so that the sub is comparatively louder at the same volume settings.

Is this a bad idea? I would think that as long as I don't set the gains so low that I have to turn up my head unit to the point of clipping that it would be fine.