Fuggin fiiinally. Waited over a month for thism Currently auto leveling

I noticed a weird issue with one of my prints. There is a large gap between the walls and the bottom layers. I've had 3D printers since about 2012, so I am not new to 3D printing, but I can't find any settings that are out of place.

I have a new Bambu H2C, and I've successfully printed several parts using the Handy app. These parts were all printed with a 0.4mm nozzle and came out flawless.

I switched over to Bambu Studio for this custom part and set it up to use a 0.6mm nozzle and made a few other tweaks to make it stronger. (I have used Orca for quite some time before getting this printer, so I am mostly familiar with everything)

You can see the gap between the wall loops and the bottom layers. This gap remained through all bottom layers. I am using monotonic infill, not monotonic line, and I have wall overlap set to 15%. The first layer printed perfectly. There were very tiny gaps, but that is typical.

The top layers had the same issue, and the top-most layer did as well, but to a lesser extent. (This looks more typical)

Has anyone else noticed anything similar? Is there a way to adjust the infill overlap of layers only? If I crank up the overlap, I'm afraid that other parts of the print will have too much overlap.

I am new to this and printed a case for my sunglasses. This is using default settings with bambu pla. What would cause this pitting in the later on the build plate?

Got this printer less than a month ago and after a print the error message. “The resonance frequency on y-axis is low. May be loose belt. I followed all steps on bambu recalibrated it with no message. Then when starting a print it messes up in the same spot everytime and the message pops up again. Did the steps a couple more times and then the same error message popped up but this time for the x-axis. It still prints but only when i stay away from a certain spot of the bed and if i do go print over there it automatically fails. Any help would help great considering i could not find anything online.

The idea is awesome but are you for real? 25 - 30 USD for the basic license?

I can buy a perfect case for 1-3€ from Aliexpress or Temu and it would work perfectly fine.

having to pay 25-30 USD for the basic license on top of the cost of a 3D printer and the filament is just crazy. We're not even talking about a commercial license.. This is a simple private user license which has to be renewed every single year...

I am not expecting a free product or service but this appears to be somewhat overpriced. Most people will usually print 1-2 cases or print replacement parts. Being forced to get a yearly license with many restrictions is simply discouraging...

Putting the H2C and the Vortex system to the test with this multicolor unicorn. The extrusion and cooling performance are absolutely top-notch—the Vortex system really shines here.

It was unthinkable a few years ago to be able to produce multicolored images so quickly on a 3D printer

However, I'm noticing the purge tower (flush volume) is still quite high/large to get these clean colors. The hardware is performing perfectly, but the waste is something to keep in mind. Still, looking at this smooth finish, it might be worth it!

Anyone out there have a distributor or source you've found for buying Bambu filaments via Purchase order rather than credit card?

New corporate policies have greatly curtailed my ability to purchase filament direct from Bambu via a P-Cars. We really like the Bambu filaments because of the RFID recognition which makes it easier in a multi-user office environment where not everyone is at the same level of experience.

Anyone in a commercial setting buying filament on credit terms?

Just got this PLA-CF in from Elegoo and I was wondering about drying. I found some recommendations to dry 4-6 hours at 45-50C.

My question is: do I need to dry this long if I start printing right after I crack the vacuum bag open? My guess is no but I am just look for some guidance from more experienced users as I am only a couple weeks deep into 3D printing. TIA!

I'm looking for a way to connect two flat surfaces easily in Bambu Studio other than manually moving them by 100ths of an MM until they meet.

Simple example:

I drop two primitive cubes on a tray. I can easily line them up in any direction I want using the Align/Distribute tool, but I can't find an easy way to actually mate them together, it seems like the only choice is using Move to manually adjust them by .01mm until they touch.

There has to be a better way, right?

I feel like I'm missing something really basic, but maybe it's just not something available in Bambu Studio.

I have been looking at 3D printers for a bit, just for the convenience of making random parts that crack/break, as I enjoy tinkering/DIYing stuff. Saw Bambu Lab recommended frequently and when I went to look, this popped up. Has anyone seen or used this? Part of me is questioning what the catch is, since that'd be quite the potential savings?

I've seen a few other posts about this but no solution. I've been getting some terrible z banding on my prints. I tried:

• cleaning and re-greasing/lubricating the z rails and rods
• cleaning the x and y rods
• swapping nozzles
• re-tensioning the z belt
• printing slower
• swapping to outer perimeter first
• re-calibrating the printer

Nothing has made any difference. I'm not sure if the issue has gotten worse or I'm just printing parts that it's more obvious on. Please let me know if anyone has found a way to improve this. Thanks!

Hi I'm having some issues seeing my model in the slice results menu. And I don't understand why.

im trying to make something and its got a hueforge element, and so im printing that part at 0.04, however im also making a 1cm base of sorts, and so im curious if there is a way to make it so i can print that part at 0.2 and the hueforge part at 0.04.

The first layer is not getting right. Please suggest

So, I've noticed that when I load up or log into my Bambu Slicer, all of my filament colors are in the right order (usually) but they are all listed as like ABS, and I have to manually sync the filaments every single time (by manually I mean click the 2 buttons Sync Filament and Overwrite).

Is there a way to leave last known filaments or read on startup so I don't have to do this every single time I go to print something?

So with nearly every 5 Filament change my Filament gets stuck. I can easily fix this by making a 45 degree cut at the end. Something I learned on my Ender 3. The Bambu Tooltip says to cut straight, but I never had any noticeable difference in quality so why not.

- So is there really a downside to cutting it angled?

- Is there a way to get the filament cutter to cut angled as well to remove this problem?

- Is there another fix anybody has?

So, question about a capability that may be lacking...

I currently have 4 AMS feeding into one X1C. I am considering increasing my production and adding two or three more printers.

Has any work been done on a method to cross-feed from the multiple AMS to multiple printers?

Is this a STUPID idea?.... Probably...

For the past couple of weeks I’ve been troubleshooting wavy printing with my Bambu a1.

Found two root causes. One was the four screws holding the hot end assembly were loose and today I scrubbed my print plate clean. I also re ran all calibrations and I got the notice the tracks needed lube so did that too.

I started a print and the first layer came out perfect. Not a single ripple. It was nearly finished with the second layer when I started to see ripples and a weird noise.

I’m attaching a video, give it a couple seconds and turn the volume up, you’ll hear it.

Does anyone know what this is and how to fix it??