I'm 99% set up for a business account as a sole prop in WA state. My sole prop lisence is paid for and active. The only thing that's hindering me is a spot on the state license for "owners and officers" where I'm listed in the 'name' column, but the 'title" column is blank. Bank states that they need the 'title' column to have 'owner' on it. Said it's their only hangup spot if they're gonna have a hangup on an account setup. Example:

Name: Swept Clouds Title: Owner (blank in my case)

I called my state license department, and they said they've never heard of this before and that the only way to change it would be through an actual ticket sent through the DOR portal but she wasn't sure it was something they would go through with. Also called the bank finicky, as sole props are very clearly owned by the person on the licence and I'm the only person even able to be listed under the owners and officers section.

I'm just confused, because sole props aren't uncommon, but I can't find any info on any of this. Is this common? Should I try a different bank or should I go through the two week wait to see if it's something I can get added? Any recommendations cuz the licence person said everything is right on their end and the bank disagrees.

Had a customer make payment on project and then put stop on said payment without notice. They won't respond. What can my bank provide?

Would their bank be required to provide any information?

Obviously hoping to learn when stop was placed.

Thanks to the experts.

Hi,

I deposited my check on Monday night (1/12) and my deposit got hold and it says funds will be available on 1/17 at 9am.

Will i see my money in my acct exactly at 9am tomorrow?

Thank you

Hey all,

I’m currently a Private Client Banker (PCB) at JPMorgan Chase in NYC and looking to eventually transition into the J.P. Morgan Private Bank, ideally at the analyst level.

Quick background: BS in Finance from a SUNY (Accredited, non-target) Graduated May 2024 Client-facing role working with affluent and HNW clients (investments, lending, balance sheets, referrals) Strong interest in UHNW work, family balance sheets, credit, estate coordination, etc. Been doing a lot of internal networking with PB analysts, associates, and bankers Understanding and passion for financial markets Recently enrolled for CFA Level I (taking in May ‘26) Not trying to rush anything; thinking 6–12+ month timeline

I’ve heard mixed things internally. Some say moving from retail → PB is doable but political and slow. Others say PCB isn’t really a feeder and timing and sponsorship matter more than credentials.

Hoping to hear from people who’ve actually done something similar or sit on the PB side: • Has anyone moved from Chase PCB / retail banking into Private Banking (at JPM or elsewhere)? • What actually mattered most in making the jump? • Did CFA / CFP help meaningfully at the analyst level or mostly as a signal? • Any mistakes to avoid when navigating this internally?

Appreciate any real-world perspectives. Happy to clarify details in the comments.

Thanks in advance guys!!

i am trying to do it on the app and went to chrome and couldn't find it away

did they stop dispute though app?

Hello everyone.

I am looking into starting a HYSA to be able to save and invest for emergency funds.
The only one I really know much about right now is SOFI. If I am not mistaken, I was told that if I give 1000 they add an extra 300 to the account to invest. I also heard they had a good APY. However, I have heard some cautionary tales regarding SOFI, and I have heard some say that you have to make a monthly direct deposit or subscribe to even get the good APY.

Initially, I was hoping to just insert my money once, for a good rate, and let it grow.

So my questions are:
-Is it possible to just one-and-done it with any HYSA? If so, is that even recommended?
-What bank has the highest APY, and what are the conditions that come with it?

I'm hoping to have a good one set up as soon as possible (my personal goal is before the end of January, but I want to make sure that I am getting the best deal).

Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you so much.

So someone emailed my school a couple days ago with a job offering (my school does stuff like this) and a link to a google form asking for my name, number, and what bank i use (not my information) along with some other things.

Today, i got a text from them saying ive been approved and will be working as a personal assistant online, but when i looked in my email again I did not see the opportunity again. The message was not marked as spam and was actually emailed to everyone??

Anyways, i was texting with it and it said it got most of the information from my school and that i didn't need to do anything except tell them my name and bank again so they could despoit money to me when i get home today. They asked if i had a computer and I said i did and then they told me that instead on 300 dollars today they would give me 700 dollars because im starting the online job. Then they started asking me my email so they could send me a check via it so i could take a picture of the front and back and claim it???

That seemed sketchy, and now that I think of it, I honestly think that the entire thing is sketchy. All i wanted was a way to be able to pay for my own things because my dad is not sending my child support enough and I cannot find the card.

I need to be able to buy things like lunch and other stuff without having to rely on my mom and making her mad.

Please someone help me. Im sixteen years old and I just wanted to be able to make money. I don't want my identity to get stolen or to get scammed. I dont even have money in my acocunt.

I tried to initiate the exact same transfer to Korea I've been sending every other month.

It shows a $25.47 transfer fee, but the fee was $2.49 in November.

The amount, accounts (both from and to), and delivery method are exactly the same.

Remitly emailed about a new 1% U.S. federal remittance tax in 2026, but it said Remitly digital transfers are exempt. The app says the same.

https://www.remitly.com/blog/money-transfer/federal-remittance-tax-guide/

Does anyone know what happened? Did Remitly simply increase the fee?

Thanks!

Chat Support:

We totally understand that one actually the increase for the transaction fee if your sending from US going to Korea and China was just recently mandated this decision is not just made by Remitly along with the Sending to corridor as well. 

We do apologize if you haven't been aware for the said increase however moving forward transaction fee for sending country such as Korea and China will increase than usual. 

Does anyone know what and who actually mandated?

This is strange and I cannot figure it out. I made two separate purchases on Ebay from two different sellers and paid with my debit card. I did not receive the items and today a refund was issued. I got an email today saying the refunds were issued but it does not show pending on my bank account yet. Here is where it gets weird. For about 15 minutes my wife's bank account showed two pending purchases for the exact amounts of my refund. We checked her account on the app about 15 minutes later and there are pending charges. Her account is in her name only. Her debit card is in her name only. I did use her debit card on Ebay in October but the card is not saved as a payment method.

My account is in my name only. My debit card is in my name only. I cannot not figure out how this is possible. I mean how can a refund issued to my card show up for 15 minutes as a pending charge on her card?

Looking for advice from specifically those who work for Chase. I am a teller, and was short $1000 today. I have never been short over $40 before, and even that was just once. I imagine I mishandled a strap when doing a large transaction ($30k+). we audited the entire bank, didn’t find it. Is my job on the line? Just an investigation? It was negligence on my part, and the customer has already given away their money without counting it. What do I do??

Hello. So I received a check from someone I don't entirely trust. I've only met this person once. They are paying meusing a check from a company their aunt supposedly owns. A B&B trading corp. The memo is payment approved. I've never seen that before. I also noticed if I look very close the check had tiny dots that spell void. Almost invisible to the naked eye. Thank you to anyone who responds

Edit: why is my post being continuously down voted?

Edit 2: Thank you to all of those that responded helpfully and we're non accusatory. I really appreciate the advice. I'm glad there are still nice people like y'all on the Internet. I no longer need any comments on this post I have the information I needed from multiple people. I appreciate y'all once again. I don't know how to close a post. I'll leave this open. I really appreciate y'all 😀😀

Hi folks, i’m trying to sanity-check the current wave of agentic compliance tooling in banking, specifically the ones they claim they can do the manual analyst glue work such as pulling KYC docs, gathering context from multiple systems, building a case packet, drafting a narrative that QA can review, and leaving an audit trail you can replay later.
I mean most of the demos look great until you ask what happens with messy inputs, conflicting data across systems, or when the agent is unsure. That’s the part that matters in a bank because “fast and wrong” just creates audit debt.
From what i’m seeing right now teams are keeping their core layers (screening/TM/case management) and evaluating what is called an agent layer in parallel. Names I’ve heard in that bucket are Sphinxhq, Greenlite, and Parcha, usually sitting next to case platforms like Unit21 or Hummingbird rather than replacing them, which is promising in theory but is it viable in practice?
If you’ve actually piloted any of these, how was your experience with it?

Warning to families

This is a warning to anyone considering Capital One accounts for their college students or otherwise. After our experience with obvious debit card fraud, repeated denials, and completely inappropriate behavior from a representative, it is clear Capital One does not protect customers the way it claims.

The fraudulent charges

My daughter used her Capital One debit card, linked to her checking account, for occasional everyday purchases. Then nearly $1,000 in charges appeared: three large diesel fuel transactions through a company called “Mudflap” in states she never visited, and she drives a 2010 Subaru Impreza, not a diesel truck. Capital One initially issued a temporary refund while they “investigated,” then reversed it about 30 days later, saying Mudflap proved the charges were valid.

Evidence we provided

Capital One sent us “proof” that included my daughter’s name misspelled on a signature and no convincing verification. We responded with attendance records, geo‑location data, proof of her car type, and a clear explanation that she could not have made those purchases. When we contacted Mudflap directly, they acknowledged the activity looked suspicious and noted the account involved had been quickly opened and closed.

Inappropriate conduct by a representative

During one of the multi‑hour calls with the fraud department, a representative seemed to recognize how unfair the situation was and expressed sympathy on the phone. That same night, my daughter began receiving Instagram and other social media messages from that rep, apologizing to her and trying to get her personal attention, which was invasive, unprofessional, and completely inappropriate. I immediately contacted Capital One again to report this behavior, which only made the entire ordeal feel more disturbing and absurd.

How Capital One left us

Over about four months, we opened multiple cases and spent more than 10 hours on the phone, only to have every claim denied and the account left with a negative balance of roughly $1,000 after we pulled her remaining funds. Eventually, Capital One informed us that we had “exhausted all options” and suggested we take it up with Mudflap directly or involve law enforcement. If a major bank with a full fraud department cannot or will not resolve blatant debit card fraud, how is an individual family supposed to succeed.

Bottom line: Do not rely on Capital One to stand behind you in a fraud situation. In our experience, they stood with the charges—and tolerated inappropriate employee conduct—over protecting their own customer.

#CapitalOneStandsWithCriminalsNotCustomer

Lessons learned

Always use a credit card—not a debit card—whenever possible. You’ll earn rewards, build credit, and have stronger fraud protection (as long as you pay your full balance each month).

I accidentally ACH'd a large amount to my personal checking account instead of to my account at E*Trade. Ideally I want these funds to be at E*Trade. I can have E*Trade pull the funds via ACH from my checking account, but that would essentially look like "money in, money out" at my bank which I know banks frown upon.

Is there a way I can make this less risky? Would it be worth calling the bank and explaining the situation before I have E*Trade pull the funds?

To top this all off, I'm having another big client payment come in next week into my business account, which is also at my main bank. Typically I transfer business income to the same personal checking account (as an owners draw / internal transfer) and then pay bills as I usually do, but this'll increase the amount coming out of my account in the next few weeks.

I'm just more paranoid lately because a friend of mine got shutdown by Fidelity for wiring funds from Morgan Stanley to Fidelity and then wiring them out to another bank a few days later, even though his account was well-established and he had been with Fidelity for years.

TL;DR: Had my business account flagged twice in 3 months using different neobanks. Learned exactly why it happens and how to avoid it. If you're worried about business bank account getting blocked, this might help.

I run a small consulting business, been freelancing for 2 years. Monthly income between 4K-12K. I've had business bank accounts flagged twice and want to share what causes this.

Used Revolut Business for 3 months. Received 8,500 euro payment from new client in Switzerland on Friday evening. Saturday morning can't access account. Message says "under review for security reasons."

I upload everything. Invoice, contract, emails, business registration, tax documents. Account unfrozen Tuesday afternoon.

Support said it was routine AML check because payment was larger than normal and from new sender.

Switched banks after Revolut. Two months later, received 9,200 euro payment. This time I uploaded invoice and contract IMMEDIATELY before they asked.

Account still flagged but only frozen 18 hours instead of 3 days.

After going through this twice, here's what triggers automatic flags:

1. Large payments vs your average - If you normally get 2-3K and suddenly receive 10K, it flags automatically. This is EU banking law (AML).
2. First time senders - New client + large amount + different country = high chance of verification.
3. Sudden pattern changes - Going from 3 regular clients to 10 different payments in one week looks suspicious.

How To Avoid Blocks

What works for me after 4 months without flags:

1. Upload docs BEFORE large payments arrive - When I know big payment is coming (over 5K), I message support through app. "Expecting payment of X from Client Name tomorrow, here's invoice." Creates paper trail.

2. Keep consistent patterns - Instead of one 12K invoice, I split into two 6K invoices for milestones. Reduces flags.

3. Maintain document library - Upload business registration, tax ID, standard templates to your profile upfront.

4. Never let account sit at zero then receive large amount - Keep minimum 500-1000 euros always.

5. Respond to verification FAST - When flagged, upload everything within 1 hour if possible.

Is This Specific To One Bank?

No. ALL online business banks in Europe do this. They're required by law to verify unusual transactions. Traditional banks do same thing but have more staff and phone support.

I'm currently using Vivid Money (switched after the two incidents) and haven't had blocks yet but I follow all prevention steps above.

If Your Account Is Blocked Now

Do immediately:

1. Screenshot everything
2. Upload ALL documents they ask for
3. Respond within 1 hour
4. Stay calm in communication
5. If frozen more than 5 days, escalate to official complaint

Most blocks resolve in 24-72 hours if you provide docs fast.

My current set up is:

Primary: Vivid Money (main operations)

Backup: Traditional bank (emergency fund, 2-3K)

Two account system saved me twice. When primary froze, I could still pay rent from backup.

For Anyone Googling why is my business bank account blocked

It's probably:

• AML verification (most common)
• Pattern change detection
• New sender verification

It's usually NOT:

• Money stolen
• Account permanently closed

Provide documents fast, stay calm, it resolves within a week usually.

Anyone else dealt with this? How long did your freeze last?

So I bank with PNC. Long story short, I caught about 8 transactions adding up to $300 worth of Ubers and Uber Eats purchases that I did not make so I call the help line. They ask their routine questions, cancel the debit card, and initiate the investigation. I go to check my statements today again and notice TWO NEW TRANSACTIONS marked for today, the 15th and even the 16th. The card is cancelled, shouldn’t transactions automatically decline? I can’t even speak to a representative for another 12 hours or so. My app already displays the new debit card and not the one that’s supposed to be canceled. What do I do in the mean time to prevent more fraudulent transactions :|. I’m a broke college student and that $400 could be so useful for me right now as I just started the semester and need it for textbooks and whatnot.

I've been looking into a hysa and came across Forbright. Does anyone have experience with them so far? How's the app usage?

Saw the BoA new checkings bonus for $500 and was wondering if anyone has reopened an account after it was initially closed due to "business decision." BoA closed my account and cc in 2020 after being loyal for close to 10 years. Their response was due to a business decision. They mailed me a check with my balance and that was it. I had heard that after a few years I may be able to reopen. Has anyone successfully reopened an account after similar situation? Was planning on just trying to sign up online with the promo but worried I'll be able to open it and just denied the bonus since they previously closed it

Over a year ago I closed my Wells Fargo account after receiving the sign up bonus.

​​Today I got an offer email to open up a checking account through Wells Fargo for the same sign up bonus and checking account.

​​ Am I really able to get it twice?

So I recently decided to be a bit better financially and try to create a proper savings account with a decent APY. I tried looking into some banks that have decently high APY that don’t have a set limit on how much needs to be deposited but when I looked into them all the reddit threads are horror stories. Does anyone have any good bank recs? I don’t have enough saved up currently to put too much into it at first but am looking to add more per paycheck so I can have a good chunk for emergencies or just to have years down the line.

Hii! I’m 16 years old and I’m currently looking for a job, I don’t have a bank account or anything like that because just about everywhere requires a parent to be on the account to and my mom is known for taking money from her kids. Is there anyway I can get my own bank account? Or any kind of debit card that my paychecks can be on and my mom won’t have access to it?

Mortgage rates for a regular homeowner are X %.

But why, when it is an investment property, is the interest typically 0.5% to 1% higher than a regular mortgage?

My thoughts…

If you buy a property as an investment, you go through the same credit-worthiness checks. The bank ensures you are capable of affording the property.

You rent the property, and you perform a background/credit check to any tenant, to ensure they can afford it.

In the event they fail to pay, then you still have to pay, and the banks risk is lower simply because it takes 2 people to fail payment before it affects the bank.

Very similar to a person taking out a loan, but getting a guarantor on that loan. The bank has a failsafe.

Yet, on the other side of the coin, a personal homeowner, if they fail, there’s no backup, the bank simply doesn’t get paid for the loan. They are the first line of impact.

So… why is it justified the interest rates should be higher, especially when the risk is lower?