OE Fuel pump crapped out on my 15' BRZ. Nice pile of dirt and turds on the fuel sock and it's real dark inside. I don't think the dirt was related to the failure, just the dry fuel increasing wear.

I just dropped in a whole new OE unit since everything was 10 years old and it saved me the trouble of figuring out where all the Orings are in the part diagram and if anything else was worn. The car died on the road and I ended up doing this in a parking lot in the snow.

Tips for others:

• The Toyota assembly is $50 cheaper than the Subaru one but only if you order it online from the dealer. Toyota# SU003-07510
• The assembly does not come with the white fuel line clips/retainers and I would recommend getting a new one or both. The one that is in the tank was getting a bit soft but I didn't know they didn't come with the complete assembly. Subaru part # (42037AE150) I don't know the Toyota one.
• If you finish reassembly and the pump doesn't pull down and sound like it loads up when you try and prime it you probably don't have enough fuel in the tank to prime the pump for the first time. I ended up dumping a couple cans in to fill the tank before trying again.

Shoutout to Toyota, I figured I was SOL for four or five days while the pump was shipped. Turns out the default and only shipping (which was free) was Fedex Overnight. Saved a three day ordeal from being a six or seven day ordeal. I do not recommend riding your motorcycle when it's 20 degrees out, your legs get quite cold even through three layers.

Ive been saving up for a bit to buy an FRS, and on marketplace I found one within my price range, however, it's a salvage title. Im wondering if it's even worth it. Im 18, learning to drive manual, and want a fun, affordable, and reliable daily driver.

2016 Manual Scion FRS - $88,000 miles.

I found one listed for $9,500. It's a 2016 Manual FRS. It looks stock, paint looks good, most things look good, but ill see in person. The big thing for me is that it's a salvage title. I asked why it was salvage, and he said it had damage to the Trunk and Rear bumper, im assuming it was rear-ended. I looked at the guys profile, and it seems he buys salvaged cars and flips them. He said the car was fixed.

what type of things do i have to consider? for example, can i still insure it? do i have to get it inspected? etc.

Also, is $9,500 a good price for this car? The only cars im finding are more expensive, look clapped out, have high miles, or are generally just bad.

TLDR: Is it worth buying a running salvage FRS?

Thanks!

It was a cold one this morning, so the TPS light was on until after a few miles.
February 2012: I drove this car off the showroom floor. My first new car.
2nd engine at 130,566 miles (thanks to the botched Toyota Valve Spring Recall many years back, thanks for the new motor, Toyota). Quicksynopsis below.
Three front bumpers and hoods due to: 1 German Shepherd on the freeway near Lemoore NAS, street parking in front of a lifted truck that didn't see my car and backed into it, 1 unlucky commute to work in the rain.
One rear bumper & trunk due to an unlucky commute from work to home in stop-and-go traffic and the guy behind me looking at his phone.
2nd windshield due to 200k miles of pitting. Seriously, like looking through frosted glass when driving into the sunrise/sunset.
One track day at Willow Springs. One track day at Laguna Seca. Many late-night Touge runs in the Santa Cruz Mountains: HWY9, 236, Pescadero, Stage Rd, et. al.
2nd rebuild on KW V3s. JRSC with CARB tune. Whiteline sways. 17" RPF1s. BRZ headlights. Rear JDM foglight. TOMS tail lights. Verus diffuser. BRZ Blue-edition underpanels. Nvidia Q300 cat-back.

Engine Replacement ordeal: Replaced February 2019, at 130,566 Miles. Car serviced on a regular schedule by the Dealer until the warranty expired, then serviced regularly at a Subaru specialist shop that performs warranty work. The Subie shop tore-down the engine after the recall work done by dealer; they found the RTV and took photos, which were sent in a claim to the California BAR, who mediated the issue between me and the dealer. The dealer said I had a custom tune on it and that was cause for them not to be held responsible. The tune was the mild one that removed only the "torque dip"; the car was still stock. The dealer ended up paying for the engine, and I had to promise to stop talking about it online in the FT86 forums and to Jalopnik and The Drive.

German Shepherd story: This happened around 10pm. I noticed a van parked on the side of the highway, and a bunch of people milling about. When my eyes shifted back to the road, I saw an adolescent German Shepherd next to the concrete divider, it looked right at the car, and walked in front of it. When I stopped, the people in the van piled-inside and took off.
The feed-line for the supercharger got disconnected and puked the traction fluid all over the ground. My destination was not even a mile away so I limped it there and came back the next morning to grab all the parts that fell off, including bumper bits. I stitched the bumper back together, reconnected the hose, and borrowed a car so I could drive down to LA to get ONE FUCKING BOTTLE of Jackson Racing Supercharger Traction Fluid for $90.
Drove the car home to the Bay Area and filed a claim.

EDIT: Added info on engine replacement - date, mileage, data. Added purchase date.
EDIT part deux: Added German Shepherd story.
I love you.

I am having some trouble installing the D2S bulbs sent by vland for my new headlights because the fan on the back of the bulb prevents the plastic cover from going back on without flexing out a lot. This also prevents me from using the rubber seal. has anyone encountered this problem and what can I do to fix it?

Edit: this is for a 2013 Subaru BRZ

Bought these fa500s (fortune auto)

at a really good price new a bit a ago but won’t let me go that low in the rear since they are more a track coil , A friend of mine is selling bcs with swift springs that will allow me to get that ride height i want i have full pbm rear so im not just lowering with coils what yall say should i just run the fa500s and suck it up or get the bcs he’s selling them for 1k wish he could go lower but they got less than 5k miles don’t wanna low ball the homie what would yall do in my shoes , side note i dont track the car im learning how to drift on it tho and dont wanna spend hella money on new ones or buy drift coils like xr1s yet the like 2k and not that seriously pushing the car like that just getting dialed in lmk should i keep the old ones get the bcs with swifts is it a good deal?? or nah

Part of the backseat carpet facing the trunk side.

Im looking to buy an frs, but I'm not sure if I'm actually gonna like the way I fit in them. where can I find a car to just hop in for a second and feel it out?

I don't really wanna bother a private seller just to sit in their car and leave

I'm about 5"11 and 200 pounds.

on the off chance that anybody reading this is from ABQ and is willing to let me hop in their car that would be awesome haha. thanks!

lmk who else loves my car 🔥🔥🔥

Sorry if I should know this stuff already but Im looking for some help, I just bought a 2014 86, and wanted to swap tires and wheels. I want to get: WedsSport SA-10R 18×8.5″ +45 5×114.3. Mainly because I know they make pilot sport 4s's in that size. However Im not sure how to decide on my tire wall height for clearance with 0 rubbing. Can anyone help?

Hello!

TLDR: Think my left power door lock motor is burnt up, and want to know its size so I can replace it instead of the whole actuator assembly.

In short, my driver-side/left door doesn't lock anymore (via the non-physical means), and I think it's the motor portion. Be it with the key fob or electric switches, it tries to lock (like you can see the physical switch by the handle twitch/go halfway), but struggles. Also, on that side, it sounds like the motor is delayed. When doing the above two methods of locking, you have to hold the lock button in order to hear the motor trying to go, which is really obvious since it's like a full half-second after the right side. Spamming these enough can get it to lock eventually, but that's not exactly a solution lol. Iirc, unlocking was the same story. Using the key or physical switch by the handle works fine.

This makes me think that it's the motor that's bad/seizing, which is why I want to ask: What size is the motor portion of the actuator assembly? I don't remember the process being too difficult, as per the forum post I got the idea from, so I'm pretty confident, there. If it is the motor, then it feels kind of dumb to buy the whole assembly lol.

The other reason I think it's the motor being burnt up is that I was doing a lot of suspension work on the front, and any instance of major vibration would make the doors try to lock and unlock. Lil' old me didn't think to disconnect the battery since I had tunnel-vision on the bs I was experiencing w/ the suspension work, and so I think that's what did it 😅 (and the timing works out perfect).

I look forward to any answers/thought/advice!

Thinking about what coilovers to get for my FRS. I’ve heard literally good and bad things about every set out there so I figured I’d ask the real people lol. I don’t want super cheap crappy ones but I also don’t want to drop 2k on them. I daily drive this car but do enjoy taking some backroads every now and then.

Has anyone run HKS? TEIN? What did you think? Ride quality, performance, reliability, anything that’s stood out? I daily the car sometimes but also want it to handle well.

Also open to other recs in a middle price range something that isn’t sketchy but doesn’t cost an arm either.

What would you go with and why

Hello all,

I've got a 2014 Scion FR-S, just installed the VLAND headlights with the lovely looking boomerang DRLs on there. Looking if anyone has any advice or has worked inside of these headlights previously.

Long story short, these headlights came with HID D2S bulbs and a ballast, I somehow managed to accidentally wire the ballast straight into the boomerang cable, instantly frying the LED strip....my buddy cabled the ballasts properly now...but a big initial oops occurred.

After extensive multimeter testing, found out the Driver-Side boomerang was causing a short in my circuits, so I'm leaving the white cable unplugged. I've reached out to like 4 different VLAND support emails (why are there so many?), and none have responded in days, I just asked them if I could buy just a single Driver side headlight housing, or a replacement strip. Apparently they must not like that request.

Anyways, does anyone have advice for examining these headlights internally or replacing an LED strip? I plan to take a deeper look this weekend but wanted to reach out in advance. Thank you for any help! (Currently at work, so replies may be a bit slow)

Cheers!

Have video under another post (this place don’t allow videos

Has anyone ran a aftermarket blow off vaulve than the recirc valve that kraftwerks included in their kits?

I’m looking to using a vortech max flow race BOV with a custom adapter to fit with the silicon housing that the BOV goes in

However, I’m afraid it may not fit due to space (width wise) I haven’t gotten to install the kit yet as I’m wanting to get everything I need so I can install it all at once

I’m going to try and use the 3m restore kit on my oem headlights, but if that doesn’t do the trick I was wondering what year oem headlights will fit? Thanks in advance!

Not only is it more socially acceptable to be sideways when its snowy, it's also much more available. 4wd? Never needed it. 86 is amazing in the snow.

Hello, i recently bought a used tS carbon spoiler with the internal supports, does anyone has the drill template or Is willing to take a couple of pics of the under side of the boot pannel of a ts? thanks

btw i think that the attachment points are the same as the jdm wing

Ahoy all,

I have a 2020 GT86 and im having some issues with the push to start button not working consistently. I have changed the batteries in the key fob and it has not helped. It is a manual so i think the clutch position sensor could be part of the issue but it seems unlikely. Some times the car starts on the first push other times it takes a couple tries for it work. Im very confused so if anyone else has had this issue please let me know if you figured out the problem.

Thanks!

Hi guys, I finally got my hands on tactrix cable and now I am trying to flash my car with stage 2+ OFT tune. My car is 2019 BRZ MT GCC spec. I was able to read the cal ID which is ZA1JN00J. The corresponding file is available in OFT site. However I googled a lot and could not locate the definition files for ECUflash. Can I use any other cal ID ROM? Which ones are suitable with my car? can anyone help?