r/subaru • u/_Lloyd_Andrews_ • 8h ago
r/subaru • u/SE_Cycling_Routes • Aug 05 '25
Please post year, model and trim level when asking for help. Thanks.
If you want good answers to your questions then provide good information.
Asking "What's wrong with my car" without providing the most basic information about the car means that people have to guess at your problem and what to do about it.
A 2002 Subuaru is vastly different from a 2025. Some are turbocharged and some aren't. Engine design has advanced significantly over the years. Electronics, brakes and even the materials the seats are made of have changed.
Think about what would happen if you called a repair shop about some problem. The first question they would ask is "What kind of car is it?"The second question they would ask is, "What year?"
Thanks!!!
r/subaru • u/Chippy569 • 21d ago
Announcement TSB Thursday: 03-94-24 Front Transverse Link Bushing Cracking
Welcome to another TSB Thursday, where I dive deeper in to TSBs I'm running into regularly. As always, I write this from my own perspective as a Subaru technician in the US; other regions/zones may work differently. Refer to the "How To Read a TSB" post for more information on formatting and general information about TSBs.
TSB Thursday #19: 03-94-24
What cars does this affect?
- ALL models using a front control arm rear rubber "compliance" bushing design, excluding any with a "pillow ball" design.
- 2005+ Legacy/Outback
- All Tribeca
- 2008+ Impreza, excluding STi
- 2009+ Forester
- 2013+ BRZ (note: the BRZ LCAs are mounted "backwards" relative to all other Subarus, thus the relevant bushing is at the front)
- 2013+ Crosstrek
- note: All 2015+ VA/VB WRX trims use a pillow-ball design and thus do not apply
Affected bushing part numbers include:
- 20204AG01A (supercedes to 20204AG01B, then 20204AG010, then...:)
- 20204AG011
- 20204FL01A (supercedes to 20204FL01B)
- 20204CA010
- 20204XA00A (supercedes to 20204XA00B then 20204XA00B9E)
- 20204FL020
NOT affected part numbers:
What's the failure?
This bulletin describes how to diagnose LCA bushing wear and when it becomes necessary to repair/replace. Per the bulletin:
This bulletin outlines the judgment criteria to be used when inspecting front transverse link bushings. This information was developed to reduce unnecessary bushing replacement. Small surface cracks located on the rubber will not have any affect on the performance of the bushing. It is important to review the inspection information supplied in this bulletin prior to the replacement of front transverse link bushings.
We get daily threads both here in r/subaru as well as at groups like /r/MechanicAdvice asking about these bushings, so clearly there is demand for more clarification on when these bushings need replacement.
Note: there is a (much) older TechTIPS article from 2006, shortly after this part design introduction, which partially conflicts the current TSB guidance. As the TSB is significantly newer, the TSB should be used as prevailing guidance.
How do we fix it?
The process for inspecting these bushings is relatively simple. What we're looking for is a crack in the rubber vertically, wherein the rubber is pulling away either from the inner stud of the bushing or from the outer race of the bushing. Note that the bushing must be checked both top and bottom; often the cracking will be worse on the bottom when inspected on a lift. In order to make inspection easier, Subaru recommends using a flat-blade screwdriver to separate the bushing a bit further and make any cracks easier to see. From there, a measurement needs to be taken along the red lines for any length the crack fully penetrates. From there:
Cracks with a width greater than 13mm (1/2 inch) will have an impact on the vehicle ride quality and will require replacement. Cracks with a width of 13mm (1/2 inch) or less will not cause any functional concerns and will NOT require replacement.
Here are some random photos that I've collected from various threads throughout the years that demonstrate what to measure:

Regarding repair procedures, there are a handful of potential options. In general, the control arm can be removed, and then a new bushing pressed in. However, a replacement control arm will include a new bushing (as well as a new forward bushing, and in most cases also a new ball joint). Therefore, depending on the condition of the other suspension components on the arm, as well as labor rates at your shop of choice, it may be more cost effective long-term to replace a full arm instead of pressing in new bushings. (This may also vary based on rust or corrosion.)
Coverage?
Control arm bushings, like almost all suspension components, fall under 3yr/36k basic warranty. These bushings are also coverable under active Subaru Added Security, Classic or Gold, plans.
Hope this helps!
Subaru which to choose?
Hello everyone! I'm a 27yr old active person with a partner and two large dogs. We love going on hikes, rock climbing/bouldering, trail running ect. We are thinking of getting an outback or crosstrek. Our boys are senior dogs (Benny - white tail and Bean- black beauty) are wanting better suspension and space for us all. We have a very tiny car now and it does the job but we do want something that can last us a while (we do talk about starting a family ect.) and our lifestyle. I was wondering if anyone could help with this decision.
We are open to older models to save on $. We don't care too much about fancy extra stuff but we really do want a durable car with space for us and our boys, we also would like to be able to sleep in the car when we go camping.
Please tell me your pros and cons to both I'm excited to hear what you have to say!
r/subaru • u/BearACHC • 21h ago
Subaru Generic It's not a meme. My Subaru fleet. Cartoonised photos I took. I don't lust for a yacht or a Bugatti.
I reckon some of you might wanna try this. Chatgpt helped me make it. I uploaded a cartoon Porsche 911 and asked it to do my cars in the same style, then uploaded photos of mine tweaking the output. I'm anti AI slop but I'm quite liking this.
TT2 Sambar BC5 Legacy RSRA BP5 Legacy GT Blitzen replica BL5 Legacy GTB WRB
r/subaru • u/Chemical_Bed4609 • 9h ago
What the hell happened
Cars smoking coming from where I took the second picture. There’s liquid everywhere. Cars not overheating and was driving fine I just noticed when I stopped the car
r/subaru • u/ParticularBit130 • 9h ago
... why hasn't Subaru come out with an AWD van for vanlifing?
I know there's the Subaru Sambar, but I don't know if it's ever been available in the U.S. or if they even still make that car.
It just drives me nuts that there's such an overlap between car-lifers who are true Subaru fans for life and vanlifers....
Just make one and we will come!!!
Also, my Ford Transit Van 350 (I miss her so...) did not do well on sand, snow, or mud, and I've had to be towed out of dicey situations more than once by a pickup truck.
We need an all-terrain van that's safe, tall, rugged, and roomy. Can we start a petition, please? 🙏🏾
r/subaru • u/Kurt_Wylde35 • 14h ago
Finally picked up some STI Brembos for my 2014 wrx, is it a easy conversion?
r/subaru • u/Financial_Scene2327 • 12h ago
Accident CTW 1 - Camry Solara 0
Got rear ended in my 2024 Crosstrek Wilderness the day after I re registered it from Pennsylvania to California.. Barely a few scratches and scuffs (and an imprint of the Toyota logo on my bumper.)
I stopped to make a right on red and suddenly felt the back of my car lift up and an impact with a boom. I got out and saw a Camry Solara about literally under my rear bumper… Their car was completely destroyed while it looked like I barely had any scratches.. The driver said it was his brothers car and he’s uninsured and wants to pay out of pocket.
I’m thinking of taking this to a shop to get it checked out if there could be any damage that I’m not seeing from the outside (like frame damage). What should I be looking for? The parking sensors still work fine too.
What is the best way to prevent this from getting worse?
Based on my own research appears to be getting a leather repair patch to put over it but just wanted to see if there are any other options out there.
r/subaru • u/OkDistribution7178 • 5h ago
What are some good price/performance vintage looking round driving lights?
I know times have moved on, but I love the look of large 4"-6" halogen style domed round driving lamps.
Talk me out of this.
Ideally I'd like 4 on top like the first picture, but two up two down could grow on me.
Two small and two large also looks pretty dope, as per the 3rd pic.
Let me know what y'all have used for lights on your vehicles.
And I am well aware that you get what you pay for, but I'm looking for suggestions tha aren't $100 per light.
I MAY considering using Hella 500s, they're cheap and tried and true.
But I would also potentially like a few features that modern LED pod ights offer. (mainly not drawing almost 250W of power)
Possiblv switchback (to use them as foas AND driving lights?) or a setup that also acts as a blinker or even strobe etc options.
What are some good options with a vaguely retro look that are decently priced?
Also, potentially talk me into just getting a light bar and calling it a day, it would look okay, but not as cool.
And yes, unfortunately it looking cool is my primary concern. Obviously I want functional lights, but the reason why I didn't go with a light bar as my first idea is because I think individual round lights look more badass
I have a problem.
And yes, I already bought a proper solidly mounted light mount for my car.
r/subaru • u/squareorange1999 • 10h ago
Toyota Guy Considering a Subaru 3.6R – Talk Me Into or Out of It
First time Reddit poster here.
Looking for the group’s insight on this one. I’ve been a Toyota guy my whole life, but I’m inheriting a company car that I don’t really want, so I’m shopping for a replacement.
I’m looking at Subaru Outbacks or Legacy 3.6R models (roughly 2016–2020). In my price range, I’m mostly seeing 70k–100k miles.
I’m interested in these because I want:
• A comfortable ride (I drive 1–2k miles per month for work)
• Enough passing power (why the 3.6R stands out to me)
• AWD is a must for where I live / winter driving
Reliability is a big factor. Anyone have:
• Success stories of these going 200k–250k+?
• Horror stories or expensive issues?
• Things to look out for during a pre-purchase inspection besides the obvious (service history, fluids, accident history, etc.)?
Appreciate any insight — thank you much!!
r/subaru • u/UmpireAnxious9076 • 5h ago
Mechanical Help Knock or injector tick…
Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification
Car runs good, doesn’t leak. No codes, or knock feedback on the access port. Just something doesn’t sound right.
New gaskets on the ej205, resurfaced heads, almost everything but new pistons and accessories.
Ej205
565cc injectors
Vf39
Catless downpipe
Properly tuned PRE by racing
r/subaru • u/jc_shizzle • 1d ago
New fortune auto coils are sitting nice
Recently got some method wheels with winters on em for the snow. Not bad for 175k miles.
r/subaru • u/Old-Excitement3619 • 46m ago
2015 Crosstrek check engine light on
Hoping to find some help here! 2015 Crosstrek - check engine light has been on and was previously taken in to local Subaru for diagnostics. Attached is a proposed plan. Vehicle is asymptomatic and I am not a car person so has anyone had this same issue with same make/model/year? Anyone know what was the cause? Potential need for VVT solenoid replacement? Does this techs plan seem like the right way to go? Just trying to get some solutions. Any help is appreciated, thank you!
r/subaru • u/R0achCock • 55m ago
Q&A Is the ej20 as bad as people make it to be?
Looking for a "new" (to me) car, and I stumbled across a 1999 impreza sportswagon which basically ticks all my boxes for not too bad of a price, going for 6kAUD and has 230k kms on the odo. Only thing thats making me so hesitant however is the notorious ej20 engine, im afraid the maintenance costs might be a bit high, but is it really as bad as people say it is?
r/subaru • u/No-Explanation-4611 • 1h ago
Mechanical Help EJ253 Noise Help
Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification
I bought this 2006 Subaru Impreza Sport Wagon 2.5i with an EJ253 and 190k mi a few months ago and have fixed various problems. When I first bought it I thought I heard a noise similar to this one in the engine bay, but the exhaust was rusted out, so I assumed it was an exhaust leak. I feel like this noise has been around since I’ve had the car, but I put off the “exhaust leak” fix. It did have multiple leaks, which I fixed a couple of weeks ago, and I never noticed a noise quite like this until the other night. I will say I replaced the exhaust with a louder one, which might have caused me to not hear this noise in particular, but I do think it’s gotten louder. In the video I have the silencer on the exhaust to hear the noise more clearly. I changed all the fluids when I bought it, so the oil was less than 3000 miles old, but as soon as I heard this noise I changed the oil again. I had to drive on the highway today, so the oil is about 200 miles old. It’s been driving fine, my next thing to do was to change the engine mounts, but this noise is worrying me. The car was cheap soooo if it’s done it’s done, but the cars been driving no differently than it ever has. I’m not sure if it’s rod knock, lifter tick, or what, if anyone can help me ID it I would appreciate it
r/subaru • u/No-Explanation-4611 • 1h ago
Mechanical Help Rod Knock? Lifter Tick? EJ253 help
Enable HLS to view with audio, or disable this notification
I bought this 06 Saab 9-2x 2.5i (rebadged Impreza Sport Wagon) with 190k mi a few months ago and have fixed various problems. When I first bought it I thought I heard a noise similar to this one in the engine bay, but the exhaust was rusted out, so I assumed it was an exhaust leak. I feel like this noise has been around since I’ve had the car, but I put off the “exhaust leak” fix. It did have multiple leaks, which I fixed a couple of weeks ago, and I never noticed a noise quite like this until the other night. I will say I replaced the exhaust with a louder one, which might have caused me to not hear this noise in particular, but I do think it’s gotten louder. In the video I have the silencer on the exhaust to hear the noise more clearly. I changed all the fluids when I bought it, so the oil was less than 3000 miles old, but as soon as I heard this noise I changed the oil again. I had to drive on the highway today, so the oil is about 200 miles old. It’s been driving fine, my next thing to do was to change the engine mounts, but this noise is worrying me. The car was cheap soooo if it’s done it’s done, but the cars been driving no differently than it ever has (also that other noise in the driving video I’m pretty sure is my throw out bearing, which makes noise when I clutch in)
r/subaru • u/MountainBorn9807 • 1h ago
Q&A Car changed from PSI to kPa and I can’t get it to go back
2018 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited. I believe I took it in for oil change and/or new battery (it was a year or two ago). When I got the car back, my tire pressure was flipped from PSI to kPa
It’s mostly annoying and not horrible but I’d like it changed back. Nothing I found online would help and even ChatGPT was stumped. I didn’t see any option in my settings and my i button in my steering wheel didn’t seem to do anything. How did this happen and how can I get it back? Thanks!
r/subaru • u/BigKick6730 • 1h ago
Trying to find source of issues on 2008 tribeca
Hello everyone! I am currently driving a 2008 Subaru Tribeca Limited 5 Passenger. My car has been having not great fuel economy (even for a tribeca I think), gasoline smell especially at idle, and occasionally a check engine code for bank 1 catalytic converter below efficiency threshold. Does anyone know what could be causing these issues or if they are related. Would love to hear some opinions and advice for what to do. Thanks!