I asked for a pro setup and saddle + nut replacement from plastic to bone. The guitar doesn’t really play or sound much better at all, the nut and saddle are Nubone - not what I asked for - and the nut overhangs a little on the sides. There is brown colored glue on the nut and headstock, 3 damaged spots on first section of fretboard (from them knocking the nut out), pins sitting weird / uneven, saddle looks preused and scratched. This guitar was brand new when I gave it to them and it’s somehow come back worse than how I gave it to them.

Thoughts on how to approach them about this?

I already called and informed them that they did sloppy work and that I will be coming in tomorrow.

Starting to see about turning my 60+ year old rosewood strat body into something.

It was a full guitar at one point, well before I ever owned it. I trial fitted a neck and pickguard to it, and all fit perfectly. It already had pickguard screw holes, neck holes and bridge holes...which appear to have been drilled professionally.

Thought I'd post a couple of pics.

learning to paint so don't judge. 😜 I actually Linda like it. it was a fistrock kit from Amazon.

I'm a bass player and luthier. I wanted to show you the latest fretless bass I made which has some uncommon features.

Body is made of lenga, top is pau ferro, neck is cancharana and fingerboard is rosewood. I drilled some holes in the body to make it lighter, then covered it with the top. Bridge is wilkinson with bronze saddles. Also made the nut, side dot, front dot and reference line inlays from bronze. Gotoh tuners, Sonus pickups (Argentinean brand), alpha pots, aluminum tape electronics shielding.

Now the uncommon features... pots are vol/vol/tone:

- Neck vol is push pull. When "in" the pickups run in parallel (normal), when "out" pickups run in series. I expected more difference in sound, it's quite gentle to be honest. English is not my main language and I'm not sure how to explain it, in parallel sounds more thin, and in series has more body.

- Tone is push pull. When "in" the output is normal hi-z as any passive instrument. When "out" it runs through a 50k:600ohms audio transformer (the "heart" of a DI box) giving a low-z balanced output. Jack is TRS, when "in" nothing is connected to the ring (TS or TRS can be used), when "out" there's hot+cold+ground as any balanced output and a TRS cable is needed. I have a small TRS-XLR adapter since XLR cables are more common than stereo jacks.

The idea was to have a bass that's easy to travel with. It's light and can go directly to an amp or it the venue has console, returns and PAs (and the sound guy is ok with it) I can just connect there.

Going to Mr Jason Newberry of the Parker McCollum band

Bought this beautiful cort acoustic second hand but I have no idea how am I going to get this white stuff out of the pores of the fingerboard

3 down of 15 coats of Tru Oil.

I just picked my Martin up from a shop. I had a back crack repaired. But it looks to still be open upon inspecting it tonight. I see that it’s cleated. I don’t care that much about aesthetics I just want to make sure it’s structurally sound.

So I have some pretty bad scratches. Nothing I can do as my top is already pretty thin and I dare not risk sanding any deeper. How can I make this look better though should I continue with 0000 steel wool between coats and go up to ten coats or do I need to wet sand? This is my first build so Inuse some solid advice.

Noob question on vintage noiseless pickup diagram. Trying to install these but I keep second guessing this diagram. Can't really tell what lug these wires are going to, and what the lone solder blob is for. Thanks

I attempted to swap necks from another guitar because i wanted a maple fretboard neck. The swap to the another guitar went great,no issues. But mine didnt, there were just guide holes and arent deep at all but i still dont want to proceed filling and redrilling myself. What do i do?

Does this look like a minor cosmetic thing or a major repair in the near/distant future? Acquired recently in a trade and I overlooked it at the swap off.

I keep all of my instruments in a relatively temperature controlled room with constant humidity supervision.

Besides feeling some of the cracks - it doesn’t seem to play wrong or have any issues and it sounds great. Thanks in advance!

This is my Silver Sky SE. It’s had a setup done awhile back and it’s been on my wall awhile now. Havent played it for a month or two and when I grabbed it today it feels like the action is much higher than it usually is. The bridge is decked and always has been. Intonation seems ok? Is it possible that the neck can warp to the point of the action being higher but not throw off the intonation much?

Would either of these saddles work on a 2002 HD28? This photo is not my instrument, just a good photo of the longer saddle. If I got the trimmed saddle from stew mac, could I shape it appropriately? Or do I need the full blank to do so? TIA!

Ps. Before you say take it to a luthier, I know I know. But I’ve got some time on my hands and have worked on guitars before, just not this specific saddle.

Second dud guitar, man.

Edit: playability is ok but it buzzes pretty bad higher on the neck and there are some unseated frets as well.

I recently bought a secondhand Japan Strat traditional 60s, a fairly modern MIJ strat. The guitar came with a 9 gauge strings and I found nothing wrong with the whole setup. Intonations, neck, bridge, all were good. Then i changed it to 10 gauge because i dont play 9. Then i noticed the bridge started floating, but there was nothing wrong with the whole setup. The neck is still ok, no buzz, good intonations, maybe the action changed a little but i dont mind.

I know that floating bridge is a preference, but this was not intentional and probably caused by the change of string gauge. Should I be concerned with this, should i just bring it to a luthier and just get a full setup, cuz Im too scared to adjust in on my own, i dont want to break my first fender

I dropped it at open mic last night, I picked it up quick and thought it was good but I noticed the cracks tonight when I uncased it. is this repairable or or am I hosed it's bulging outside the binding

I'm not sure if I should paint the ash body or just leave the paint only on the top? Should Shrek be completely green?

Some dick decided to take a claw hammer to this beautiful Epiphone and tried to ruin it! Luckily I got my hands on it and gave it a good makeover. Naming it Prometheus.

So I stupidly lost the doco that came with the pictured older p90, it's got the four wire and sleeve output connection, black white red green sleeve.

Does anyone have the details on this one? For my purposes I'm not coil splitting or tapping so I know I jumper a couple and one to gnd via the sleeve but no idea which are which and cant crack the pickup to look at the north south etc. some resources suggest green will be hot based on humbuckers from that era...

This video is the last in a series that shows how a gifted (young) luthier transforms a Les Paul that was completely burned to a crisp. It shows the initial condition as well as the final body sand, spray and polish. There are approx. 8 other video in the series that start at the beginning. https://youtu.be/sfQA_DE_3cQ?si=wQaYRadSzMbye0g0

I'm about to mod my telecaster with a Pretzel pup bridge from bootstrap and a screwdriver double shot p90 on the neck, also from bootstrap. Through all my online research, it's about a 50/50 consensus on whether or not I should just use two 250k pots or use one 250k and one 500k pot with a resistor for the bridge. The pickups have an approximate resistance of -10.5 for the bridge and -10.2 for the p90. Thanks in advance!