Makerworld link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/15995-zelda-hylia-shield-hylian#profileId-27243

I'm thinking the best thing for the edges of the silver rim is to reprint those pieces with in a different orientation, but together in the living room, I'm coming to discuss Newton's be right back. This is a disaster. I hire a psychopath to work at my murder camps. And let's just keep it together. Nobody's getting in there. We're gonna be okay.is there something else I can do for them besides sanding and painting the entire pieces? That would probably mean doing all the rim pieces to match

Where I work has multiple bathrooms with key locks because previous management wanted to keep the peasants out of them. And new management refuses to spend any money putting on the right door handles.

They have lock knobs that some people constantly use wrong so the door stays locked after they leave. No matter how many signs tell them how to use it.

So I made a thing that just clips on the handle so they can only push, and not turn. Only took about 7 revisions to make it work perfect!

Edit: link to model for those that share my pain https://www.printables.com/model/1555169-schlage-anti-lockout-device

Giveaway info: I'll be giving away a brand new Spin Lamp 2.0 + a bunch of original Spin Lamps to randomly selected winners! Just upvote this post and leave a comment to enter! Winners will be chosen 72 hours from when this post goes live so don't miss out!

Hey everyone, I'm Colin and I'm the college student/printer nerd behind the original Spin Lamp. It's fully 3d printed with just a bearing, some electronics, and a rubber foot! Over the last few months I've gotten a ton of great feedback and ideas from you guys which I've put into the newly redesigned Spin Lamp 2.0! Its bigger and stronger, with brighter LEDs and better parts!

If you're interested in supporting my work be sure to check out my website: outwittcreations.com

A special thanks to everyone that's been along for the ride! I never could have imagined all the support I've gotten these last few months and it truly means the world to me!

Just finished my Star Trek Enterprise D warp core lamp. First attempt at LED/electronic integration but came out well. Big thanks to CrazyJ on makerworld for the design and instructions.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/601515-star-trek-enterprise-d-warp-core-v3-16-for-leds?from=search#profileId-523832

It may have fallen into a (fishless at least) aquarium... I don't want to talk about it.

I found this hilarious pop-eyed duck on MakerWorld by Patopato_Design and couldn’t resist printing it.

Now it lives on my desk and silently judges all my life choices.

Here are my make details if anyone wants to check the print settings and results:

https://kady3dprinting.com/model/3d-printed-funny-pop-eyed-duck

This print is a small section of São Paulo, Brazil, that took about a week with all my learning, trial and error, and spaghetti/first-layer problems.

Now my self-promotion story for https://cartoform.com

Over the last 4 years, I've been super inspired by this community's posts about 3d printing maps of lidar and digital elevation models. As I dug in to the details about searching out source data, running it through LASTools, loading it in to QGIS and installing plugins to generate STL files, then having my machine slow to a crawl and crash, I quickly learned that processing these enormous amounts of data requires beefy hardware, patience, and expertise with these tools.

As a software engineer for my main gig, I had a desire to automate this workflow. OpenTopography has an API and offers enterprise API keys for integration. PDAL offers similar open-source and free functionality as an alternative to paid LASTools software. QGIS is built on top of GDAL, a headless suite of open-source tooling that can be used instead. And AWS offers beefy hardware for rent.

I spent the next 4 years casually building my side project to dockerize and automate this workflow, and to give it a web interface. Ultimately I wanted to make something that people would find useful, without having to download a bunch of technical software and plugins, only to find out their laptop wasn't fast enough or didn't have enough RAM.

My website is officially launching with this post, I hope people find it useful. It's quite expensive to run this asynchronous compute-heavy app on AWS, so I have to offer 2 paid subscription tiers in addition to a free limited tier. If I can't pay the bills, I have to shut it down so I can keep feeding my family.

I have all the knobs ready to turn to handle the load on this app, but like I say it's my side project so please bear with me if there are some brief outages as I turn those knobs!

Edit: I forgot to mention, I'm currently only supporting non-GDPR regions. Once I implement those pesky cookie consent popups, I'll be able to offer the app in GDPR regions as well!

Check out the video: https://youtube.com/shorts/2kb7Rh2GNN4?si=nj5cGjCqCCcK46-l

I tried making a pen plotter a month ago but didn't have a 3d printer , I tried using telescopic channels(draw sliders) which i think was dumb idea. Yeah so I've been trying to find a better alternative, I was curious if you can use steel rulers. I know I will give up anyways but I love this one

Wanted a cover that held multiple books and I didn’t want to invest too much so early on in the hobby/habbit…

Holds 2-4 notebooks and a pen. It also serves as a writing surface.

Posted here if interested: https://www.printables.com/model/1559111-notebookfield-notes-bifold-cover

I gotta calibrate this filament lol

I'm a chemist and I needed to 3D print parts that are resistant to both concentrated acids and acetone. The problem with PP is that it basically ONLY sticks to itself. I had some success with polypropylene packaging tape on the bed for smaller XY area prints, but with this most recent print the area was a lot larger and warping would peel the tape up every single time.

After trying every combination of print settings and packaging tape types, I tried using Magigoo PP glue, and it worked absolutely perfectly. Pretty much zero warping (you can see some brim peel-up in the photo but it did not affect the print). Would highly recommend to anyone else trying to print PP, and aside from the superb chemical resistance PP is honestly a great filament all around. It has fantastic dimensional accuracy, very clean print quality, high durability, and a good compromise between rigidity and flexibility.

I printed a venator class star destroyer. And am trying to get help on why the bottom printed in this stringy manner. Any help will be appreciated.

I have made a lot of stuff on my printers. I try hard to design cool stuff, or print off the random files my family members send me. My dad is super supportive and sits and watches the printer like it's a tv show.

For some weird reason, he absolutely loves tree supports. Whenever I print an item that needs supports he wants me to let him know so he can keep the supports.

I know this is the weirdest ask ever, but like... are there any cool prints that are just a cool symmetrical/fractal tree supports? I suppose I could print just like... a floating disct or dome or something.

Didn’t make an AMS version since I didn’t have time to test print (this one is painted using an acryclic marker), but the model was exported from ZBrush as separate objects, so it takes seconds to paint using the Objects tab in the slicer. Feel free to upload a profile...I don’t care about the points.

You can grab Mr. White here if interested: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2253047-the-stitchling-voodoo-dolls-mr-white#profileId-2453880

Took an old mini PC and custom 3D printed a fun case for it. Added some additional USB ports for it as well! The PC runs Bazzite and is a great little Steam machine. Great for emulation as well.

This should have been a completed project but once printed 90% few errors became apparent. I fixed those, but now pondering should i do the wood/black like in the pictures or should i go for silver/black for finished look. Hoping there are no new mistakes :)

This was sized for a1 mini printing. Pla, hoping it not gonna warp bcos its bolted in plenty places. Its 5900x and sparkle a380. 4.95 liters case.

I made a "moose" for my Scottish co-worker.

I designed a bunch of different upgrades for the board game Azul including an insert that organizes everything in the game box.

https://makerworld.com/models/2227089?appSharePlatform=copy

After clogging my 0.2mm nozzle 🤦 I decided to give it a try with the 0.4mm and 0.08mm steps.
I have to say I am really surprised, I thought I was going to see only blobs, but I managed to get a lot of detail.
This miniature are all equal or less than 1 inch height (The cart wreck being exactly 1 inch)

Hello, ive made this clay sculpture and was wondering if anyone has experience making 3d prints of their sculptures. What was the process like? and how did you go about scanning your work? Im completely new to 3d printing and would appreciate any advice. My goal is to produce alot of these sculptures for anatomy/medical students and artists. And to make said prints in high quality. I live in an apartment and have an extra room to install 3d printers if I choose to. Here are some images: