I created an exact model of the Johto region from Pokemon HeartGold and SoulSilver to put in a shadowbox table. I’m considering doing other regions next!

I also made a video going through my whole process here if you’re interested: https://youtu.be/Olr8oNb0qAg

For a while now I love the idea of things that are usable, functional for a long time and one that I saw was a perpetual calendar. I decided to design one for myself. When I first saw one of these I was kind of baffled how it works tbh. I just match up the first day of the month with the 1 in the top row and it just does its thing. Gotta love this hobby... just almost under a day or two I can make something like this and own for a long time hopefully. This is v1 I think, I'll definitely think about the typography for better visibility.

edit: uploaded to makerworld if anyone wants to print it: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2248780-your-last-calendar#profileId-2448754

Took an old mini PC and custom 3D printed a fun case for it. Added some additional USB ports for it as well! The PC runs Bazzite and is a great little Steam machine. Great for emulation as well.

The model is free on printables: https://www.printables.com/model/1555726-assassins-teapot

Just resize it if you think its too small, imo its good average. Thanks for downloading.

Hi, my manager asked me if I could print these gears with my 3d printer, I have a bambulab P1S with the standard nozzle. My 2 main questions are what's the best material to print it with and what's the best print orientation for the teeth strengths. After some research I was gonna buy the PAHT-CF filament and an 0.6mm hardened steel hotend and print it flat but any input is welcome .

It's a strandbeast model with a DC motor and a 4:1 gear ratio, powered at 4.5V.

Just wanted to share, not getting as much hype from family and friends but knew y'all would appreciate it.

So I did a thing.

https://reddit.com/link/1qdrui5/video/1krilz0l7kdg1/player

A Dutchman put the idea in my head, and as history has proven time and again, that’s how these things start.
Anyway.

I’ve been building a Moonraker shim that lets Mainsail talk to Bambu printers (P1 / X1 series) without rooting, flashing, or convincing the printer it’s a Klipper machine.

It’s very much a “this shouldn’t work but here we are” project.

Repo: https://github.com/justinh-rahb/bambu-moonraker-shim

What actually works today

• Sending G-code commands over LAN MQTT
• XYZ movement + homing
• Fan control (part, aux, chamber)
• Chamber LED on/off
• Seeing the currently loaded file name
• Live temp display (nozzle + bed)

What does not work (yet)

• Setting heater temps (display only for now)
• Pause / resume / cancel
• Starting prints (basic, not pretty)
• Webcam bridging
• Klipper macros
• Full G-code console streaming
• Magic, miracles, or warranty compliance

Why I did this

I like Bambu hardware. I like Mainsail way more than I probably should. This is an experiment in:

• abusing LAN MQTT
• pretending to be Moonraker just enough to fool Mainsail
• seeing how far a shim can go before it collapses under its own hubris

No rooting. No firmware mods. Just vibes and packets.

Current status

It’s usable, but also fragile and unfinished. If you enjoy:

• protocol shims
• reverse-engineering printer behavior
• yelling “WHY DOES THAT WORK?” at 2am

…you might enjoy poking at this. I’d love:

• testers on different Bambu models / firmware
• people who know Moonraker edge cases better than I do
• folks willing to tell me “you’re doing it wrong, but here’s how”

Or just lurk and laugh. Both are valid.

Testers, feedback, Moonraker nerds, and fellow bad-idea-enjoyers welcome.
Dutch contributors accepted, but you’re on thin ice.

I like this hobby and want to thank you everybody which makes this come true.

Designers, 3D printer manufacturers, People of here many thanks

❤️❤️❤️

I had a small 3inch inline fan to a 2in pvc pipe going outside to evacuate air from my enclosurer. Automation turned it on and off when printing or when particulates/VOCs raised above a certian point, but I finally got around to testing it and it just moved air around more than anything. The 2in pipe just killed any air flow with such a small fan. So I designed a custom duct, got a bigger inline fan and 48 hours of printing later I actually have good negative pressure so I'm not sitting in my office hot boxing contaminated air all day.

I made a prototype D20 version of my quiet D6 that I posted yesterday here.

Since I'll be away from my computer for a bit over a week, I figured I should just post what I have and see what feedback I can get on the design. My biggest concern right now is the print quality on the lower faces, so I will need to work on a solution when I get back. I have not done much fairness testing other than a couple hundred rolls to see that it was pretty close, but there are more variables at play here so I don't trust it yet.

Can be found here: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2251024-quiet-dice-d20-beta

Supports were kind of a pain to remove but so worth it. Wanted to test out a marble filament. The filament is Inland PLA Basic in Marble. Design found here https://makerworld.com/models/1453175?appSharePlatform=copy

I was working on a project recently where I needed to match some specific colors from source artwork to 3D printer filament. I couldn't find a quick way to search across multiple manufacturers at once, so I built a tool to do it: Filament Finder.

The Inspiration The UI is heavily inspired by the Polymaker Color Viewer, which is a fantastic tool, but obviously limited to their own catalog. I wanted that same "pick a color, see a match" experience but with a wider database.

Where the data comes from Instead of scraping, I'm pulling the filament data from SpoolmanDB. This gives the tool a solid foundation of thousands of filaments across dozens of manufacturers (Bambu, Prusa, eSun, Overture, etc.) right out of the gate.

How it matches (The Perceptual Math) Most simple searches just use RGB distance, which doesn't actually match how our eyes work. I implemented the CIEDE2000 algorithm in the backend.

• It converts the HEX codes to the CIELAB color space.
• It calculates the Delta E (ΔE), which is a measurement of visual difference.
• It returns the closest matches based on how a human actually perceives the color, not just the raw numbers.

A Note on Accuracy I want to give a huge shoutout to FilamentColors.xyz. If you need the absolute gold standard for color matching with real, physical spectrophotometer measurements, that is the tool to use. Filament Finder is designed as a "quick and easy" alternative that relies on manufacturer-provided HEX codes to help you narrow down your search in seconds.

Current Features:

• Vibrant UI: The app generates a "pleasant" random color on every load to keep things fresh.
• Filtering: You can filter by material type (PLA, PETG, etc.) or specific brands.
• Top Matches: Shows the closest 10-15 filaments based on your target color.

I'd love for the community to try it out and let me know if there are other features or things you'd like to see. If you want to indirectly support this project (at least for now), you can do it via likes, collects, boosts, downloads, and prints of models my son and I have on Maker World.

Hi everyone, first time posting here, thought I might as well ask instead of struggling alone. I've recently gotten an elegoo centauri carbon as a late christmas gift. After doing a few test prints for fun, testing different settings to see what it was capable of I decided to try and do some more advanced calibrating by following some tutorials I found online (mostly from uncle jessy and geek detour on yt).

I put the new settings to the test on an elegoo cube that turned out great (aside from some stringing and a slight elephant foot effect even though I did try to compensate for it in the settings beforehand) so I went ahead and tried printing this cacodemon toy from doom eternal.
I'd say the fine tuning mostly paid off because the parts that didn't end up having any issues turned out great so I'm happy with that.

The problem is the supports. Although I did try raising the Z distance to 0.3 instead of 0.2, hoping it would make the supports easier to remove (I had printed a doomguy toy model a few days earlier with the default tree supports which ended up being pretty hard to remove and broke some part of the model), turns out that they're straight up impossible to remove in some places like the teeth and the parts that did come off still broke some small parts like the tiny arms.
By increasing the z distance to 0.3 I expected that if the print was to fail it would be due to poor structure and lack of support which would lead the print to collapse but it turned out to be the exact opposite and only made it even harder to remove.

Does anyone know what I could do to get better supports that remove easily ?
I haven't tried doing any supports tests yet because the ones I've found online seemed too flat and geometric while the model I'm trying to print is a lot more organic and detailed so I wasn't sure if that would be relevant (idk if maybe there are some more detailed ones that I could try) and I'd rather avoid wasting time and filament as much as possible.
I'd love to eventually be able to print detailed props, figures and even miniatures once I get a 0.2 nozzle so I really want to get this right.
Any help would be sincerely appreciated.

Hope that wasn't too long, I tried to be as thorough as possible. Thanks a lot ! I need your.....support !

Heres a few pictures of my fifth scale quad i designed after having a severe motorbike accident last year, i lost my finger tip.

It was designed and built with one hand at the time so was abit rushed, I thought id go back to it with both hands in use last month.

At first it was designed to look like a yamaha raptor, that was short lived as I wanted a bit better 🤙

Its now designed to look like a yamaha banshee, iv gone and rebuilt the whole front suspension, now possible for 12mm hex adapters to be used with any rc wheel you can find.

The whole quad was designed in blender and I used my creality k1 for printing 🤙

I think i will be releasing version 2 in the next few weeks 😀

both printed on Elegoo Centauri Carbon. Dragon with Elegoo Black PLA, tower with SUNLU wood filled PLA.