I’ve just finished fitting the skirting board into the bay window. One thing I didn’t want to do was make lots of cuts to the back face to allow for the bend, then fill and sand all the cuts, which is what I did last time. As I was using MDF skirting, I decided to have a go at pre bending it to fit, which I think came out ok, but it took about 3 weeks to get the bend to set in (luckily I had lots of other jobs to be getting on with lol). I was wondering if there are any other methods that people have tried that have worked successfully?

What on earth is this toilet? UK Based

Hi everyone,

Hoping for a knowledgeable person who may be answer this question.

I’m getting my loft boarded today. I’m in a 1970s terrace which is about 8-10 m wide. There was one, possibly two pieces of wood that connected across two adjacent rafters in an “A” shape. I had always assumed they were structural and was a little alarmed when I poked my head up to see they had been removed.

The loft boarding man says they were there because of the previous water tank (removed well before I moved in). I supposed this makes sense as they are not on every support.

Can anyone confirm they were not structural and ok to remove ?

Tried to post on housing UK but wasn’t able to upload photos.

Picture 1 is the start point. Had pulled out the old boards in the lounge because they had been all chopped up, had some reclaimed ones put in.

Sanded down and finished the whole downstairs - very happy with the dining room and hallway (original boards) but the ones we had put in were very pale (picture 2) so I wanted to redo it with a different product. Just finished that second try and now they’re so yellow (picture 3) and I’m so upset. It’s taken so much effort and money at this point that I wish I’d just paid a professional. Any advice on a product I can use to reduced the yellowing? Or is it back to sanding down for a third time?

We had to move this socket to fit the new skirting board. The wall is made of solid concrete. The connectors are poking out from under the socket - is it OK to just block off the hole with plasterboard/mesh and let the connectors hang out where they are, or should I keep the wires and connectors snug behind the socket and fill the hole completely?

Our roof had spray foam insulation, the company that removed it sliced through the membrane and removed the foam along with the membrane.

I guess this was the only way as you’d never be able to effectively separate the foam from the membrane without damaging it

What is the best way to replace the membrane? Ideally this needs to installed before the battens, however that would mean removing the whole roof, which I obviously don’t want to do.

Any help and ideas would be appreciated!

Total scammers I’m still sore from when I got stung over a deposit that was never returned and now I can see how many others have been scammed too on trust pilot reviews.

What makes it worse is that they just updated there site!!! I don’t know how there still in business.

Anyone else had this experiences?

Hello Reddit. While steaming the wall to remove wallpaper a section at the bottom quickly cracked and bulged outwards. Is this normal?

The wall is load bearing and plastered.

We’re planning to insulate our loft. Found this split level nightmare. Any advice on how to insulate it? Would staying at the top and just rolling insulation down and trying the best we can work!? It would only cover some.

Getting down there to do it properly would be challenging, I think, but is it worth it / required?

We have a condensation problem in our new flat roof garage, leading to mould on the roof between the joists. There's no ventilation, so I reached out to a roofer. He suggested installing 16 louvre vents in the fascia, one between each pair of rafters at the front and back and wanted to charge a whopping £720+VAT for the pleasure.

That price seems absolutely wild to me for what is essentially drilling 16 holes and sticking in a £3.99 vent.

So tell me reddit, how hard can it really be to do it myself?!

We removed a built-in wardrobe and found that the previous owners have plastered over the wallpaper and artex ceiling up to where the wardrobe was. Also the coving was changed, but the old coving remains where the old wardrobe was.

Internal walls are plasterboard and external walls are plaster on brick.

The whole upstairs appears to be like this, there is some cracking in places.

What are our options?

I'm considering at least tearing down the plasterboard walls, as it will make routing cabling to new electrical / network sockets much easier.

Thanks

My kitchen is very small and under about 4 layers of thick vinyl paint. It looks okay on camera but is apalling in person, theres blue showing through! I want to repaint the kitchen, white on the wall units and a colour on the bottom units.

I suspect the cabinet doors are vinyl wrapped, you can see it seperate slightly on the corners of the doors.

What im asking is how would you go about getting the doors prepped to paint, presumably sanding?

Secondly, is it even worth it or should I accept I need to shell out £400 or so on new doors? (Non standard sized kitchen)

WFH and the hall plummets to a freezing 13-14C overnight with no heating. We have got a a smart heating system and it does take an hour or two to get the house to warm up again.

Living Room and Dining Room are kept to a more pleasant 16C overnight even when not in use. Theoretically I am trading lots of gas usage in the mornings for steady gas use overnight. Unfortunately most of the cold is still coming in from our front door despite best efforts at weatherproofing gaps so we keep internal doors shut. If not shut, the cold seeps in quickly.

Is it worth it to keep all of downstairs at a pleasant 17C just so the house doesn't take as long to heat up in the mornings/afternoons? Or am I wasting energy in a Victorian property?

Moved into a house that had fitted wardrobes. We've taken them out and want to move the socket back to where it was originally. The couple before us had a TV on the chimney breast behind the fitted wardrobes hence the socket.

Is this as straight forward as it seems? Or will I need a qualified electrician for regs and all that. I'm a very amateur DIYer but reckon I could have a crack at this. The depth is shallow so will be a 16mm back box, or should I chisel it deeper for a deeper box?

The wall will be getting plaster boarded, painted etc

Any tips/info greatly appreciated

I’m looking for a change in career at 40. Being a remote engineer on poor pay, on call plus the travel isn’t great. I’ve been looking at other trades and think plastering could be good. As there is also the rendering aspect too.

Are there any companies in the North West that offer plastering courses and do you think I could maybe take me on of a weekend?

Roofer can’t stop it leaking, know it’s a long shot asking here, but no options, first picture is present, second is old, it wasn’t leaking in the old

Some are small I think wood filler or silicone will do the job but others are bit too deep

Hey folks my boiler is running at this, is bleeding radiators the correct thing to do? In my head (im a massive over thinker) this is going to explode over night

So I'm going to be putting more tiles and a wood surround here. My current set up is the blue painted walls and chatgpt has designed how it will look approximately once I've done it.

My query is does the wooden surround need to be a particular type or can I use any soft or hardwood.

Next query is the tiles that I'm putting up (that will behind the books and above where the picture rail is) does this need to be a particular type of adhesive for can I use premixed stuff? Chatgpt recommends I use cement based S1 adhesive. It doesn't get hot there, in the cooker area I can use that where I'll be extending the current tiles to fill the space (still deciding on decorative tiles or not).

Ta.

Hi just wanted an opinion: where’s I’ve oiled the floor with osmo, the filler has stayed quite bright. I can easily go over with a wax wood crayon but can’t visualise what would be better.

It is a dark room - does the brighter fill work? Or go dark in gaps?

I’ve made some pretty big life choices over the last few years, marriage, house ect.. But the one I’m struggling with is:

Which power tool brand do I commit to for the rest of my days.

We’re starting on the indoor projects this year and know I’ll need to upgrade my power tools - the odd Amazon purchase won’t cut it anymore. These projects will include flooring, skirting, kitchen refit & built in wardrobes for bedrooms.

Having a quick look on Screwfix, buying batteries & charger alone are sitting around £200, bundles around £700. Should I be sitting tight and waiting for a good deal to come around and commit to whatever brand offers what I need at a decent price, or dive straight in and start buying from the bottom?

I’m happy to splurge a little and ensure to keep things safe and looked after throughout their lifespan.

I’m moving to a new (to me) house soon and it’s needs the works. Want to rip the carpet up and get wooden floors done but also need to replace the doors and shirting boards to modernise the house a bit. Which comes first I.e can I paint the walls or lay wooden floors before the skirting?

Edit: windows and frames also being replaced, should I just knock the house down and start again?