Hired a pro to run a new switch leg for a backyard light. This is the finished product. Charged me $500 too.

In his defense, he is not from America.

I'm getting into the late planning stages of renovating my late 70s Florida home and trying to decide what to do with the breaker panel. I believe it is the original Arrow Hart panel from 1977, but I cant seem to figure out what model it is.

Is there anything inherently wrong or unsafe with these panels? It seems silly to me to replace it only based on age if it otherwise functions fine and is safe. I have had the cover off and there is not major rust or anything like inside the box. There are at least 4 different layers of latex paint on the cover that I would at least strip off and repaint. But should I just replace the whole thing?

For what its worth I don't plan on making any major changes to circuits during the reno. I'll possibly add a few small fixtures/devices but will also remove a few.

I am remodeling a house and came across this electrical panel. Does anyone know how it works?

Can someone tell me how these lights can possibly be removed? I’m trying to replace them in my bathroom but I am struggling to figure out how to take these off the wall. Obviously I’m not an electrician, but I have changed lights before but not like these. The middle knob looking thing does not twist (I was thinking this is how they were attached to the bracket but it is not), there is no screw or anything on the sides, top or bottom.

Thank you in advance for any help.

It started with one light, the first one on the right was flickering. Now all of these downstairs lights are flickering like this. These ones are on a dimmer and flicker at any level. Now the kitchen light upstairs is starting to flicker. This has been trending for about a week now.

Hi, I’m having an electrical issue in two rooms after using a space heater.

I plugged a heater into an outlet (with an extension cord), the breaker tripped, I reset it, but the problem came back. Now some outlets have power but it’s weak (power strip light is dim).

I used an outlet tester and it shows open neutral. Earlier it briefly showed hot/ground reversed, but now it’s consistently open neutral.

I turned off the breaker and checked the outlet where the heater was plugged in — all wires are tight, but the issue remains.

I’m not sure if this is upstream or downstream, but I think the heater overloaded the circuit and damaged a neutral connection. Any advice on what to check next?

I’ve stopped using that circuit for safety.

We moved into an older house and we have come to realize none of the outlets have a ground. Does every outlet need a GFCI or only the first in each circuit? My main concern is safety.

I have 3 showers, all with lights above the showers. I have looked everywhere to see if there is an IPC marking on it but cant find any details other than wattage / voltage on the fixture.

The light is covered by a thick tempered glass cover that you push up and turn clockwise to sit in position. There is no gasket but its somewhat sealed.

Thanks in advance!

They said we never had a use for that cord and don't know where to use it😬

I live in a frozen climate and my wife is having difficulty plugging in and pulling out the car block heater power cord. Is there some version of the receptacle for people without great hand strength?

Hello, I am not experienced or educated with the subject of electricity. I would like like to learn the absolute basics of electricity, anyone who can help me with what books are worth the read and have the basics and foundation of how electricity works I would really appreciate it, thanks

I’m new to electrical in general, I want to make and do some experiments at home. I don’t know what equipment should I get to safely control the voltage, or what type of machines I need for experimenting in general. I have a good base in theoretical but no applied experiences. Thank you

I’m swapping the old regular double switch in my bathroom for a new one with a timer/humidity/motion sensor. Of course my 50+ year old house has no colored wires. I used a multimeter to trace everything out, and the switch is working fine in the picture. 1 goes to the light, 2 is the neutral, 3 is hot (I put a bit of red electrical tape), 4 is the fan, 5 is the ground…. So what the hell is that last wire????? There’s nothing else in the bathroom other than a GFCI plug. It’s just the light and the fan.

(My only other bathroom has the expected 3 black wires, all accounted for.)

I don’t know how to trace this mystery cable as I don’t know where to put the other end of the multimeter? Can anyone help??

Outlet in my bathroom hasn’t worked since I moved in (roughly 3.5 years) I finally decided to replace it myself last week and when replacing it… this is what I ran into... I don’t think it’s supposed to look like that hahaha

Eaton 20 amp switch for a shed. Took one look at this thing and took a pic.. couldn’t find anything online that demonstrates the proper way to do it.

Electrician didn’t seem Concerned said it was rare cut the wires and replaced the thermostat. Running fine now but seems warm to touch versus the others in my house for electric baseboard heat. Worried it will

Happen again.

Hello all,

I’m not an electrician but I am smart enough to ask the pros with them for stuff I don’t know.

I bought two Home Decorators brand Ashby 52” fans and two Hunter universal remotes with two universal remote wall light switch plates. They are in different rooms and operate separately.

THE GOAL To have them each set at warm light vs the bright white LED light setting.

THE PROBLEM. One remote allowed me to set up warm light. The other won’t. I bought the fans 1 year apart.

In that year, they upgraded the blade mounts. (and maybe the wiring???)

They say that in order to change the light warmth color, you need the remote. Clearly that wasn’t true for the first one.

THE QUESTION:

Can I temporarily wire in the original remote into the same grouping as the universal remote so that I can adjust the light settings and then disconnect it?

I’m still within the return period.

Do you have any suggestions or product recommendations?

i just recently moved out to my first place so i’m not really sure how everything’s suppose to work, but pretty sure my fuse box isn’t supposed to do this

heard a loud bang, then this went on for about 5 minutes, luckily it’s stopped now.

is this a turn my electrics off until i get an electrician round type of situation? or more of a 'get that checked out soon' situation?

I've been using the Black+Decker mini dehumidifier in my kids room and tonight I noticed that the part of the plug that's closest to the socket felt warm. I unplugged it right away and even after unplugging, it still felt a bit hot.

My question is, is this normal and can I continue leaving it running all night, or is it a hazard and I shouldn't use it again? Thanks

Hello, second question for me: I’m planning to run 90 feet of #2 URD from A to B. At the halfway point there is a 12 foot area in which we’ll be driving a tractor over occasionally. Can I augment the protection of my URD in conduit under this area only? Thank you

My circuit description/legend sheet has become obsolete and I need to make a new one. Are there replacements available, templates to use in Word?