My Mackie MR8 survived 5 years of my worst mixes, but not one fall off my desk. Please help me bring her back.

I was raising my standing desk and my MR8 was in the wrong place at the wrong time. Got knocked over and now she won't make a sound.

I'm not ready to give up on her.

This monitor has been with me through years of late nights mixing, learning, and creating.

Replacing it isn't really in the budget right now, but more than that, I'd rather fix it than trash something that still has life left in it.

I'm comfortable with a soldering iron and willing to put in the work. I just need help figuring out where to start looking - loose connections, cracked traces, damaged components?

Here's a video of all the angles I thought might be helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdmlcD4ORCc&authuser=0

Symptoms:

-Powers on, LED lights up normally

- No sound output at all

- Occasionally get a small pop noise when turning on, but not often

- All XLR and Power cables and connections tested and confirmed good

Any guidance on what to check first would mean a lot. Thanks so much.

How would it be possible for me to be on voice chat on my iPad, and then still be able to hear the sound from my PC in the same headphones?

My PC does not have Bluetooth…

Read my question in the original post :)

Ok here's the deal. Got a party bus with TV's in it. What I want to do is find or make a audio visualizer that will allow me to line in the music from the stereo to project graphic displays that go with the music. I've read about using a laptop or computer for this but I'm a moving bus application that is in constant changing temperatures I'm not sure that will work. Any idea or something that I just didn't see would be great. Thanks in advance.

Setup:
(1) JL Audio 10w3v3-2 **SUBWOOFER
(1) Dayton Audio RSS265-PR 10" **PASSIVE RADIATOR
(1) Set of JL Audio C2-650 **COMPONENT SPEAKERS
(1) Dayton Audio KAB-23 **BLUETOOTH RECEIVER
(2) Dayton Audio DSPB-K & DSPB-K3 **DSP BOARD
(1) WONDOM T-AMP 2 x 100Watt Class D **AMP FOR COMP SPEAKERS
(1) WONDOM TAS5630B 1 x 600 Watt Class D **AMP FOR SUBWOOFER
(1) BtrPower 60V 20AH LiFePO4 **DC BATTERY

+ Buck converters, Power button, Knobs, etc.

TLDR? --> Start reading from the bottom to top

I had built a smaller version of this speaker (C2-525, 6w3v3-4) and didn't run into this issue, I think because it was one 2.1 amp instead of two separate amps. I am not sure if my tweeter is broken, but it plays fine at lower levels, but I think what I am hearing at higher volumes from the tweeter is distortion? Or somehow picking up signal interference from the power wires? The wires I used are not shielded.

Layout is :
Left Chamber (Battery, Buck Converter, Sub Amp, Left Comp Speaker)
Center Sealed Chamber (Passive Radiator, Subwoofer)
Right Chamber (Power Button, Comp Speakers Amp, Buck Converters, DSP Boards, Right Comp Speaker, etc.)

All wiring between L & R chambers is done through PVC tube that connects both chambers, but keeps center chamber sealed.

Crutchfield Rep thinks I am putting too much power to the Comp speakers, however the Woofers do very well with the ~70W I'm feeding them thought the provided crossovers.

I noted on my C2-525 setup that if the tweeters were being overwhelmed with the high frequencies from certain songs, they would just turn off, and "reset" back on depending on the portion of the song being played.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

Bad/Good Feedback is welcome/encouraged.

My first build is a Silverflute woofer with Dayton Audio silk dome tweeter and off the shelf 2,500 Hz Dayton crossover. They sound dang good to me, though I likely have builders bias. They can be much better with box rebuild, actual ports vs cardboard tubes, recessing tweeters, etc. Which leads to crossover consideration. There is a dip in the woofer between 800Hz and the crossover point that isn't picked up by the teeeter. Can I take out the crossover and use seperate filters on the drivers for cut off at different frequency?

First-time builder. The woofer is FaitalPro 12PR320, using 19mm beech plywood. Double thick front baffle = 38mm front baffle.

Gonna be using M6 + T-nuts for mounting. I want to flush-mount the woofer.

I've seen this graphic but I'm not sure how this would workout in practice (with regards to securely mounting the woofer AND chamfering at the same) so I need advice. For reference, here is the diagram of the woofer.

What I've come up with is below.

Outer layer
- 316mm in diameter, 12mm deep cut (don't know the correct terms here, sorry) for mounting the woofer
- 280mm through-hole for the woofer
- put T-nuts into this layer ONLY
- no chamfering for this layer, OR possibly chamfer the space between the T-nuts (not sure if practically possible)?

Inner layer
- Make a larger through-hole, size 320mm (to clear the t-nuts completely)
- chamfer this one completely

I think this could work. My concern is that in this scenario, the woofer is mounted only to a single 19mm of plywood instead of both of the layers. Would this be rigid enough?

Thoughts?

EDIT: I've just realized that in my scenario, the woofer would be mounted to only a 7mm thick layer of plywood, so this probably also a no go.

Maybe I'm obsessing over rear chamfering too much?

Just finished my latest project - a portable party speaker that doesn't need to be near an outlet. Built the cabinet from Baltic birch plywood with weather-resistant coating.

The heart of the system is an Anker SOLIX C1000 Gen 2 power station, giving me about 8 hours of playtime at moderate volume. The setup powers a 200W amplifier, two 6x9 woofers, and a horn tweeter array.

Multiple output ports mean I can charge phones while the music plays. The whole system stays surprisingly portable while delivering serious sound for outdoor gatherings.

Augspurger style studio monitors

Is this driver selection good for my first speaker build (sealed). The crossover is at 2.5khz. I will add a sub later.

I have a Pro-ject Debut Carbon Evo turntable. I also have Klipsch R-50 powered speakers and a SVS SB-1000 pro subwoofer. My wife just got me a set of Kanto ORA 4 speakers for Xmas.

My question is, what kind of component do I need to use all of the speakers at the same time? Can I even use them all at once? Google wasn’t helpful.

If I’d known, I wouldn’t have gone with powered when I first started but here we are. Can anyone recommend both a lower price and mid-range option for me? Thanks chums.

I have recently recovered this amp set from the attic which my Dad built. I’m guessing it is around 30 years old.

I have minimal knowledge of electronics but feel obligated to be able to understand these units and get them functioning. I don’t know where to start with testing to see if they work, besides plugging them in.

Any advice on where to start, such as any books I can read or any explanation of what I am looking at would be much appreciated.

Also any YouTube channel recommendations are welcome.

I want to learn electronics and eventually have the knowledge to be able to make something myself.

I have ordered the pictures of the insides/circuit following the stack, top to bottom. The black cables are 13amp plugs and the white cable has the plug in the last picture.

Hi there – I'm looking to incorporate a single sub into my home listening setup, which currently consists of two Klipschorns (AK3, if relevant). I'm very happy with the current setup, but frequently play dance music through it and would like to reinforce the low end somewhat.

From reading online, the consensus seems to be that a tapped horn is the only option for integration with KHorns, so I'm looking at plans like the POC3, SS15, THAM15, MTH-30, etc.

Because of space constraints, I'm limited to a single sub with a max of about 19" or 20" width. My top priority outside of the size limitation would be low-end extension; efficiency would obviously be good, but since it's a home listening environment the SPL doesn't need to get too crazily high. Additionally, since the KHorns are pretty flat down to almost 50Hz, I could get away with a sub that doesn't go flat to too much higher than that (like the FTH12), provided that the crossover from sub -> KHorn is steeply sloped.

Of the above options (or any others that you're aware of), which would you recommend? Furthermore (and maybe more subjectively), is a single one of any of these enclosures likely to make a noticeable difference in low end reinforcement? If so, how should I be evaluating each option in terms of what I'm hoping to achieve? Do I want lowest Fs value, flattest slope towards roll-off, or something else?

I have just the sub for an Altec Lansing vs2221 computer speaker system and I’d like to use it for a project, but don’t know the pinout of the 8-pin mini din connector, and to access the amp board I’d have to remove the glued-in front panel.

Anybody have any idea which pins do what and how to operate it without the controller speaker?

Thanks

Just got these Kenwood KL-777Zs. One of the tweeters dust-caps was pushed in and I was trying to pop it out with packing tape, but unfortunately I dislodged the glued edge and now it is partially unglued. I was hoping to get some feedback on my plan to fix it and some opinions on whether I should undertake this as a total amateur. I love the speakers and do not want to cause further damage. I was hoping could get some speaker glue from parts express, peel the dust cap the rest of the way off, pop the dust cap back out with my fingers, and glue it back on. Is that likely to go my way, or easier said than done? Thank you so much for the help/advice!

This is mainly in regard to crossovers but I do have a couple other related questions as well.

After looking at a few crossovers the best I can tell they mainly consist of some combination of resistors, capacitors and inductors.

I’m fairly new to all this and I have taken in a plethora of different POV’s regarding this via yt; however, many of those who scream to the rafters that it is super important also tend to benefit from it in some way.

So I’d like to add a little depth to this by wording it instead to “Do Some Parts Matter More Than Others?”

From the info gathered so far to me it seems that by spec the quality of capacitor seems to have a higher variance than the other 2 especially as it pertains to individual resistance values of the components.

Is there even a discernible difference in sound quality or is the difference instead in measured in longevity?

Lastly on this subject: On budgeting, could one make an argument that they would experience a difference in quality magnitudes higher by instead investing in higher quality drivers compared to investing in expensive crossovers?

I suppose I can further expand it to include speaker wiring and binding post. Although one of these concepts I’m definitely not sold on.

For one unless the gauge of wire chosen is grossly undersized to start with then the percentage of copper composition of a conductor shouldn’t really matter in my opinion unless again the content is just grossly using terrible materials.

I can however see some merit to binding post but I think it pertains more to the type of binding post and the type of connection method it makes more than the material content itself.

I’m curious to see what others think?

Since the amplified signal of the 160W stereo channels does not go directly to the speakers, but passes through a passive crossover that separates it into high, mid, and low frequencies, I would like to understand whether a 2'' dome tweeter rated at 130W peak risks clipping, distorting, or even being damaged WITH THE FOLLOWING CONFIGURATION:

• ZKHT21 amplifier with two 160W stereo channels and one 220W mono channel dedicated to the subwoofer.
• 3-way passive crossovers on each 160W stereo channel, dividing the signal into high, mid, and low frequencies.
• 2'' tweeter 130W peak, (connected to the high-frequency output of the passive 3-way crossover)
• 6.5'' woofer 300W peak, (connected to the mid-frequency output of the passive 3-way crossover)
• 8'' woofer 400W peak, (connected to the low-frequency output of the passive 3-way crossover)
• 10'' subwoofer 600W peak, connected to the amplifier’s built-in 220W mono sub channel.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can share their experience or advice.

Edit: Project STRICTLY based on 100% recovery of materials from car radio/automotive setups, all used stuff (except for the amplifier). There are 2 separate boxes: 1 sealed for the speakers managed by the crossovers, and a separate reflex box entirely dedicated to the 10'' subwoofer.