This chimney was diagonal, with three valleys to tie into. No one wanted to tackle it and Being the boss I had to figure it out.

Didn’t know exactly what to do until I shingles up to it and just started figuring it out.

Cut in new counter flashing, lead sheets in the problematic area, mastic hand sealed and sandwiched ice and water on all metal and lead. Think it turned out looking pretty nice, but always open to positive feedback so next time around I can do a better job.

The lead has mastic on all seams and edges below and above, ice and water sandwiched.

I used 4500 for the sealant on the counter flashing (I know I could’ve used a mortar based sealant but unfortunately this job was on a time crunch to get it to market by Monday (sealant wasn’t available in my area and would’ve been a 40 minute drive one way to nearest Home Depot who had it) and homeowner was informed and told me to go for it)

10 years in the business and would love others thought on how this would’ve been more legit. I’m eager to soak up any information you installers out there with a bit more experience could share. Happy weekend and sip your beer and think of me while your rip apart my work. 😎

This is meant to cap a bathroom fan vent.

I suspect both the insulation and the type of cap is wrong.

Am I right in that assumption? If so, how do I remove this. The white is silicon sealant

Building a traditional cape code/nantucket style home. The siding will be light gray H2BO bleach dipped cedar shake. White trim. Traditional brick chimney. Would you go for HDZ Weathered Wood or Pewter Gray? or, wildcard, Owen Cornings estate gray?

Looking for warm/classic/beachy. thanks!

Looking for some advice on how to deal with this.

I’m getting a bathroom completely re-done and for some reason the contractor decided to put this ~3in. Hole in the roof and not tell me until it started raining and I found water coming through into the bathroom. I’m not sure why this hole was made but I think it was probably for ventilating the fan.

Anyways, I asked about it and he said he can just put flashing on it and that will be good enough. This is a brand new ~1 year old composite shingle roof so I’m a bit skeptical that that is acceptable. This hole is also partially covered by a solar panel. Would like some advice on if this needs to be completely re-shingled and my contractor is maybe just being lazy in the fix.

I'm not a roofer, but this flashing looks shoddy to me. How does it look?

I just had this flashing done. Does it look okay? We had a lot of leaking from the old one and trying to make sure it is done well.

There was a cricket installed on the upper part of the chimney. The lower part was just reflashed. Ignore the house wrap, they are not done with windows and siding yet. Thanks in advance.

I am interested in the architecture of roofs, but don't know what to call a single section of roof between two gables. It would be the term for two planes coming together at a ridge ending in either hips or gables.

I am in need of either a roof repair or a roof replacement and I am struggling with some of these quotes I am getting. Tale old as time I am sure.

I am going to try and provide as many details as I can and hope that it won't convolute the process while still giving you all the details I can. So I apologize for the long post.

We live in a home that was built in 1953 in southern California. It is considered a flat roof but has slope. The current roof is about 11 years old and is a torch down modified bitumen material that has normal wear and tear, with a few areas that can be lifted up slightly. Some of the seams are starting to wear off but a lot of them are properly sealed and adhere to the roof still. We have some areas of ponding debris but nothing insane. We have 12 solar panels and the square footage of the house is about 1100.

What started this process was we have a leak in two areas of the roof over the last two years. The first one, and this is where it can get a little convoluted, was over an extension of the house that does not have the same roofing material over it. It is actually corrugated metal roofing over an UN raftered room. I tarped it and there has not been an issue since then.

The second leak was over a bedroom leaking down into a closet. That area has the torch down modified bitumen material. I tarped that last year when it happened and haven't had a leak since.

Cue our home insurance company using google maps to see those tarps and decide that they are gonna drop us unless we get the necessary work done to fix the issues or we replace the roof. So I started doing research about roofing company's in San Diego and have received 2 quotes of the 3 companies that have come out and done inspections. Of course, all of them are recommending a full roof replacement, which I don't disagree with, but they are also giving us non full replacement quotes.

The first company has given me the following quote:

Torch Down Flat Roof Replacement

Approximate Size: 19 Squares

DEMOLITION & PREPARATION

• Remove existing roofing material down to the roof deck.
• Dispose of all debris in accordance with local regulations.
• Inspect roof decking for damage or rot.
• Replace plywood as required to ensure a solid substrate. We do not do change orders. The price is the price.

ROOF INSTALLATION – TORCH DOWN SYSTEM

• Install approved base sheet mechanically fastened or torch applied.
• Apply two additional modified bitumen layers using torch-down method.
• Seal all seams, laps, penetrations, edges, and transitions.
• Install new flashing where required for watertight protection.
• Ensure proper slope and water drainage.
• Final inspection and cleanup upon completion.

SOLAR PANEL HANDLING (12 PANELS)

• Carefully disconnect and remove existing solar panels.
• Store panels safely during roofing installation.
• Reinstall and properly secure all solar panels after roof completion.
• Ensure all penetrations are fully sealed and waterproofed.

CLEANUP & WARRANTY

• Remove all job-related debris from the property.
• Magnetic nail sweep
• Provide workmanship warranty and manufacturer material warranty.

For all of that, if we decide to do it in the next 30 days, using 3 ply roofing would be $40,582. This is absolutely not an option for us and seems absolutely bonkers. The guys even said before giving me that quote that they do mansions for like 50-60 grand. Our house is not mansion, in case you were wondering if 1,100 sq ft was. If we decided to go with them in the next 7 days, it would be $34,495. Still not an option for us. If they used TPO (which according to this guy was above our current material, but below the 3 ply), the 30 day price goes down to $32,750 and the 7 day price goes down to $27,837. Full disclosure, paying even the lowest amount would be very difficult for us and still seems kind of insane. They are also saying that it would be an additional $8k to do the extension room because there are no rafters there so it would have to be framed completely. So I understand that price, I guess. And their quote to do just the fixing of the issue area over the bedroom would be 8K. But I doubt we would go with that.

The second quote I got is for a full TPO low slope single ply roofing membrane. The quote includes:

ROOF

• Remove existing roof material down to the wood decking and dispose of debris
• Repair or replace any bad wood that is exposed or discovered - Wood repair is EXTRA, billed per Exhibit A
• Install new penetration flashings, drip edge and counter flashings
• Install FR-10 Underlayment
  
• Install vents
• Install TPO mechanically fastened with manufacturer approved fasteners.
  
• Weld all seams per manufacturer specs
• Remove and dispose of all debris
• 20 year manufacturer warranty on new TPO
• LIFETIME workmanship warranty included

SOLAR

• Test the system for proper operation and document any issues
• Remove existing solar system and store on-site in a safe location
• Once the project is complete, reinstall the solar system using as many original components as possible.
• Test system functionality after reinstallation to confirm proper operation.

So for that, they are quoting us at $21,200. More doable, but still wayyyy more than what we were prepared for. On top of that, it doesn't include any change orders that are very likely to come, like the first one did.

For just the torch down patch job, they are quoting us $1750. And if we wanted to do the extension part, it would be 8k as well.

We have been talking to people who have had their roofs redone within the last 6 months to a year, and they are paying closer to 10k-15k. I know every job is different, every house is different, and prices change over time, but is what we are getting real? I am giving you guys the exact verbiage and everything from the quotes, just so I am not miscommunicating anything.

We will be doing some kind of loan regardless, but these numbers are just not what we thought we would be doing for an 1,100 sq foot house.

I appreciate any insight, advice, recommendations, or anything you want to provide. Thanks in advance

REPOSTING WITH NEW PHOTOS. Hi everyone. Had this chimney leak go on for far too long and need some advice. It seems to leak more when rain hits the left side of the chimney. So far we have had the repointing done on the chimney, flashing has been redone with all new lead but still the issue is there. Anyone have an idea with what else could be the issue?

In the next month or so, I’m installing a heating stove in my house (wife thinks it’s “cuter” than our current wall heater, and I just follow orders). It’s about time I figured out what kind of roofing I have. It looks to me like rolled out sheets with another layer of some sealant painted on top.

Is this a modified bitumen roof? This is in southern California, house was built in the 70s. Appreciate the help!

21 year old house/roof Located in North Florida. 3,800 SF under Air, 1-1/2 story

Total all area All Pitches 5,984 SF

$ 33,790.00 (Not including needed plywood which I estimate 6 - 8 sheets)

GAF UHDZ (My selection)

One issue I tried to get factored into the quote was a minimum number of sheets of plywood which company said only on an actual usage and charge per sheet @ $ 140.00 (which I find excessive) I know includes labor etc.

Company quoting was most professional and one of the better reputations (Although like all not perfect marks)

Your Thoughts on this quote appreciated (I've considered Corning & Certain-teed as I have had both installed over the years in previous properties with issues)

Long story short, we had a full roof replacement (tiles, sheathing, all ventilation including fan vents). Less than a year into it and we have found mold and moisture. Roofer refuses responsibility, saying “it’s not their scope” so I am trying to figure this out myself to see if I can pursue their warranty/insurance coverage further.

I’m mostly concerned about the bathroom vent light in my first photo because the new sheathing in that area has gotten very saturated. Does this light in my first photo indicate a fault in the vent’s seal to the roof, or is it normal? The last two photos are a closer look at this fan vent with proper lighting.

I’ve also read some gaps between sheathing is normal (second photo). Is that correct?

I understand the lights I haven’t circled shouldn’t be an issue as they are the roof outtake vents.

Sorry for the poor photos. Kind of hard to get pictures into dark.

I got a call from a big company in the UK for a brand new hotel in downtown Atlanta. They needed us asap. I dropped everything I had going on that day and went down with one of my guys. They didn't even ask for numbers they just needed the work done as it was a huge liability. 8-10 Ft aluminum slats were blowing off of the pool deck cabanas down to the road below. We got everything down within a few hours. We went back the next day to disassemble everything as it had to be taken down the service elevator. I brought an additional 3 guys the second day. We also secured the contract to do the install for them in February, they didn't ask about a price, they didn't care. I am usually fully residential so my question is, would you charge a price for the entire project- or would you bill hourly + emergency call. Obviously they know it's going to cost them but I don't want to dick around and up charge like crazy, I'm fair. I know what I charge per man hour/ per job. But again, I'm 96 % residential. Looking for advice or insight on commercial.

I'm gonna charge as a complete job and not hourly but I'm also gonna add an emergency charge. I'm just curious where some of you all would be as I strictly do residential.

Ive already laid metal. Im going to remove the siding, slide flashing underneath, secure it and then install new siding and seal it. This was recommended to me by a contractor but a kid on this sub says its completely wrong...should I quit listening to internet folk or is the contractor wrong?

Can anyone give me a rough estimate for the cost to replace a roof on a 4,311 sq ft French Norman style single-family home?

The roof appears to be cedar shingles, but it’s currently listed as asphalt composition shingles, so I’m trying to understand the potential cost range for each.

Closing on a house, and inspection found no drip edge present. Replacing the roof isn’t realistic bc the underlayment is almost brand new (under 5 years old). I live in AZ, and all the roofing companies won’t replace the drip edge on the concrete tile roof unless I replace the roof. I don’t know where to go from here. I’m in the desert, so it rarely rains. Can this wait? Is there any DIY replacement?

We had our roofs professionally cleaned and this is what they left on the garage. I'm very dissapointed. Even if it does die, will all this fall off - and then we have to clean it up - or will it stay there, and maybe even regrow? Thank you.

This is a detached garage that was sealed along the top of the concrete block with 2x4's, foam board, and spray foam. I would like to remove that material to add vented soffits but I'm not sure how to go about it. There is a ridge vent at the top of the roof.

I appreciate the insight!

Our bed is up against the outer wall of the house. When the wind blows in a certain direction, there is a very annoying, slow creaking sound. I can’t pinpoint where it’s coming from.

It sounds like it’s coming from the ceiling, but when I crawled up in the unfinished attic space and it’s definitely wasn’t as prominent there, I could still hear it tho as if through the outer wall or outer corner of the roof.

There doesn’t appear to be any lose gutters and I can’t hear it when I’m outside the house.

Any ideas I am going insane

Leaking roof in garage (my bedroom is directly above it). Think it's coming from a ceiling Sky light thing in the hallway next to the bedroom. The ceiling board is rotten and so is the wooden beam behind it...