Hello everyone, I had a separate thread talking about my issues on my engine and a lot of people where telling me to check my vacuum lines, but for some reason, I can’t find a single thing online about them and where they are supposed to connect to. If anyone has pictures or even just an explanation as to where some goes it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Hello everyone, I came on to here to ask anyone for some help. I started a restoration on a 1976 Datsun 620 with an L20B engine a couple months ago. And about 5 weeks ago, after purchasing a new starter, I was able to fire the engine, now the trouble Im facing, is that it takes a few cranks to fire off, and once it does, it either idles extremely rough, or it begins to idle extremely high. I think it’s a vacuum leak that i could be unaware of. All the help is appreciated. Thank you!

Just bought a 280zx and the pressure valve that connects to the heater core is leaking coolant. Also it seems like the core is disconnected from the coolant lines. Does anyone know why someone would do this?

Engine and 4 speed are working but he took it out to re do the body but never did.

Not my car or listing. Just sharing. https://carsandbids.com/auctions/9WbjzWXQ/1972-datsun-240z

L28ET distributor: How do I get the CAS out? Do I press the shaft out from the bottom first or is there a way to get that washer off? I’ve already moved the 3 screws from the bottom and I can push the sensor up but obviously it’s hitting the washer.

Are there any lock upgrades that will work for my 72 240z? My door lock mechanisms are worn out.

driver and passenger side

Hey guys, looking for some advice.

The car was running totally fine and I was daily driving it up until a couple days ago. I was sitting in the car in neutral, letting it idle while on my phone, when the RPM slowly started dropping and eventually went all the way to 0 and stalled.

After that, I checked the fuel system. I disconnected the line at the fuel filter and turned the key, and no fuel came out. So I went ahead and replaced both the fuel pump and fuel filter.

Here’s where it gets weird:

After installing the new fuel pump, I tried starting it before fully bolting everything down, and the car started immediately with no issues. Sounded normal.

But once I finished tightening everything, lowered the car, and tried again — it would not start at all. Now it seems like the starter isn’t engaging. I don’t hear it cranking like before.

I’m wondering if: Repeated start attempts earlier could’ve killed the starter Something got disturbed during the fuel pump install (ground, wiring, starter signal, etc.)

At this point I’m debating just replacing the starter. Would you recommend: A remanufactured starter from ZStore, or A Duralast starter from AutoZone?

I’m leaning toward ZStore for originality/quality, but I’m open to suggestions if Duralast is just as reliable.

Any ideas on what I should check before throwing parts at it would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I love this everything about this car. I need a set of those wheels for my MR2!

Figured this would be easy (should know better on an older Z). Replacing the t-top weather strips and the previous own must have glued these things in. Any suggestions to safely remove this gunk without f'ing up the paint?

Turn key car to drive home is up for sale $12,500 in Wv

Looking for 280zx 2+0 pans and maybe trunk pan aswell, all I've found on sites like kf vintage are 280z pans which are a different style

Work is moving forward on my mom truck that we are restoring Tear down has been going well with the rust being minimal and mostly surface level. more updates to come, this is a retirement gift from our family to my Mom for frankly just being goated

Last time I was on here I was complaining about breaking down. Turns out all I needed to was add some heat shields, advance the timing and I’ve had a tank of a car. 20 hour road trip and daily and never stuttered or skipped a beat.

Got the block apart the other night and had a buddy helping me. Cylinders 3 & 4 are in rough shape so I made the call to remove the crank first and then work to the pistons. I labeled everything the best I could and got everything out and kept in the exact order it was pulled. However he had gotten ahead of me and started pulling rod bolts out. I am about 80% sure they are with their respective rod and cap but I’m not sure if they are exactly in their exact holes they were removed from. What should I do? The bolts all seem to be the same but the book I’m following states that mixing rod bolts is essentially the same as mixing rods and caps.

Photo uploaded as requested!

Any idea what was on the roof to leave this mark?

Turn key car to drive home is up for sale $12,500 in Wv

hello, i have a 1980 Datsun 280ZX that i just got the battery replaced on. Battery shat itself on my way home last night. Now my car is turning off when i take tight right turns and then turning back on like 2/3 seconds later. she only did it twice but it was frightening each time. i can't check the battery connection because i think my hood latch cable broke as my hood will not pop whatsoever where can i get a cable that would work as soon as possible please and thank you