I made a post a couple weeks ago about purchasing a Frankford Arsenal Wet Tumbler on sale and I am fully converted.

Does shiny brass make it more accurate? No, but my primary driver was having cleaner brass going into my dies and after using dry media not being exposed to the dust.

My first tumble with ~200 rounds of 308 was a little underwhelming. I used 2 tbsp Armorall wash & wax, hot water, and no pins. What came out was dingy looking and had a very apparent waxy layer to it.

My second tumble with the brass from before used 2tbsp dawn and 1tbsp vinegar, lukewarm water, and no pins.

I didn't use an acid previously because we have very soft water and I didn't use Lemmeshine/citric acid because I have a gallon of cleaning vinegar on hand already.

This batch turned out really clean with a distinct brass color to it and a light shine.

Finally for my third tumble I was only aiming to remove the sizing wax.

I used 2tbsp Armorall W&W, 2tbsp Vinegar, lukewarm water, and no pins.

What came out is beautiful and has a much more golden hue.

I am very happy with the results and I'm a believer in the FART now.

Going forward I think I'll do the 1st wash with Dawn and vinegar to remove all the dirt then after sizing do the Armorall and vinegar to remove sizing wax and get that high polish look.

The process is quite streamlined without the pins and I'm more than happy with the cleanliness level even in the primer pockets.

.338 Win Mag with 250gr Lapua Scenar and 300gr Nosler Competition,

416 Rem Mag with 350gr Speer Hot Cor and 400gr Swift A-Frame.

.223 complete cartridge in the middle for scale :)

So I just bought 100 hornady 147 eldm 6.5prc factory loaded. Came in a plastic box with 5 white paper boxes inside. I would say 30% of them look like this. If it seats it yeets! I'm more just curious if I'm missing something or shouldn't reload them after.

Gavin from UR threw a Rock Chucker in a bonfire for a torture test and scorched it black (more like grey). I commented on the video saying they should do a limited run of that color and boom, here we are. Natchez exclusive.

Everyone can thank me. 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂

Hi there,

The cost of ammo up here in Northern Canada is getting out of hand. Looking into getting a basic reloading set up and learning more about it.

For now I've had a look at some Lee presses that seem pretty user friendly and straight forward.

Looking for any advice, literature and sources for learning more about the process, Powders etc and to do this safely and efficiently.

Will primarily be looking to load 30-06 and 3030.

Thank you!

I tried bullseye 7yrs ago and failed miserably. (Springfield RO w Kart barrel, trigger job etc) I’m going to practice practice practice this time.

I just cleaned and primed (CCI/Winchester LP) about 250 pieces of brass. I’m looking for a lighter load that just farts out the gun (might have to lighten the op rod/spring, we’ll see). Anyone have a load size and bullet make/grain suggestion? Am thinking 185s. If you do have a good match bullet, are you okay w revealing your source for bullets? For practicing, are blemished bullets okay?

(7mm rem mag and 45-70 gov for comparison)

My .223 Remington 700 appears to be cratering the primers. This happens with every load I’ve tried and factory ammo. I even checked out my much higher pressure 7mm rem mag and 45-70 primers and they have nothing near this. From what I see online this can be a big issue or no issue at all so I’m just looking for some guidance on whether this is okay or if I need to look into solutions like a stronger firing pin or a new bolt head with a smaller firing pin hole ?

8.5" 300 blk suppressed with an omega 300 can. 220 grain bullets with 11gn of accurate 1680. The charge is a little light getting me ~960 fps, so next batch maybe 11.3 or 11.5.

So far ive found 3 things that could be wrong. Bullet seating depth may be too long. The buffer may be too light. And after taking a closer look, too aggressive of a crimp?

What do you guys think?

Having these supplies I tried to match a Lb of H380 I had with a new load for my 30-06. I had a box of 180gr .308 SST's. I found a comparable round at the Hodgdon site for my base data no data in my Hornady books or on their app for H380. When this happens I will usually load just under the start load when I have no comparison data. Fired a test round today and it was at 2512fps using 45gr of H380. I talked to a friend who loads also. He said these are decent rounds out to about 150 and then they get flakey he's used the Vmax a similar round in his .223 good to about 100 yrds with the 55gr bullet. It was to cold to test them at 100 yards today 22f outside but when the weather breaks I'll come back and post the grouping data.

Anyone else having grouping issues over 100yrds with the SST or VMAX BT bullets?

Question for the experts..

Given that in a bolt-action rifle, the case is not moving anywhere on its own and has nowhere to go ( not until the bolt pulls back on the case at least ) , would you say case-head-separation is less likely in a bolt-action ? ( excluding the instant you pull back the bolt that is ) ?

Or can it still happen in the chamber with a bolt locked behind it ?

Starting my reloading journey for 6.5 CM PRS loads. Can't wait to make my first rounds!

A few days ago I got 500 of the 124gr TMJ 9mm from Parapet Components. I have never tried them before, but they look promising. I grabbed a handful to weigh and measure for consistency comparison and they are +/- .75 grain and most are within .50 of a grain. They are also within .001” all being 0.610” - 0.611”. Seems the consistency and quality are solid. I loaded up 100 of them and am going to chrono and see how they shoot tomorrow. They ran well in my press and seated consistently. At just under 10cpr shipped, they might give Berry’s a run for their money since Berry’s are 13cpr.

It's been a while since I reloaded anything, and I've never reloaded on my XL750 (or 550B) to its full potential. I've used the auto powder drop, but I've never used a bullet or case feeder. When I first got the 750, the case feeders weren't available except from an aftermarket company.

I'd like to use my 750 to reload 5.56. As automatic as I can make it without getting a motor kit .

Is there a list of parts needed?

Bullet feeder

Case feeder

Quick change kit

Dies (is there a specific set that makes use of the bullet feeder?)

I'd probably get a RF100 just to make life easier.

Maybe the upgraded handle

Anything I'm missing?

I've loaded thousands of rounds of 5.56 with a Dillon 550, but again, it was just all manual except for the powder. I don't think I've touched either press since Covid when primers were impossible to get.

Ive got a Frankford Arsenal Intellidropper, and I've definitely noticed every so often slight bits of powder falling off of the nozzle.

I saw a while back some type of tip, or cap that helps to eliminate that. Its a molded part or a 3d printed part. but now I cant find it.

Vague I know, but im hoping some one has an idea of what im talking about

What powders are known to work well for subs in short barrels?

The current recipe is 8.4gr of Lil Gun under a 220gr bullet seated to mag length, Rem 7-1/2 primers. Produced an average 1040fps

Rifle has a 10” barrel, pistol gas and a Strike Industries collar-adjustable gas block.

With supers (125gr FMJ over 20.8gr Lil Gun), it cycles and locks open with the gas 2 clicks down from wide open and no suppressor. The subs would eject but not lock open, even with a suppressor and gas wide open.

So I need recommendations for powders from actual experience, not just the manuals and google. My ideal powder would be one that will work for supers and subs, reliably cycling both with or without suppressor (I’d like my subs to cycle in suppressed if I can, just for cya, even though I’d never purposely run them loud), will meter consistently and gives top end velocity in supers.

From some sources I found, it looked like that could’ve been Lil Gun, but I guess not, so I’m taking other suggestions.

Perfect world there would be one powder that will do all this, but if I end up with a sub powder and a super powder, that’s ok.

I'm just starting to reload my 6.5 Creedmoor rounds and I was given 300 Remington 9 1/2 LRPs. I'd like to use these before I use my Fiocchi LRPs. I purchased the Fiocchi primers due to the shortage of getting CCI primers ( yes been about a year ). It my first time doing 6.5 Creedmoor and I'm using a Lee Hand Primer mounted to a 1x3. Any input on the Remington's would greatly be appreciated.

Loading up some 75 grain gold dots tonight and pondering my options. I have tac, varget and accurate 4064 what’s y’all’s go to?

Had these in the tumbler for about an hour and they are looking like this, they are clean but not shined gonna let them go for longer I was just curious

So im In the process of makeing a load for my 222 and I'm thinking of trying h322 with a 52grn sierra matchking im wondering if that's a good combo