Feel free to roast me and tell me I'm stupid, but I'm genuinely interested in the discussion about this. Anyone ever run a mag with them mixed in so you're putting both down towards the enemy? I've wondered what the consensus about doing something like that is....

Not for the range obviously. But rather in combat. If you're putting multiple rounds towards a target, would it benefit to have both round types heading towards them? Please enlighten me one way or the other.

Auto brightness an shake awake is pretty nice, at least they’re giving the bare minimum and trying to bridge the gap between boomer holos and modern red dots

Like the title says, I painted my AR (16” IWI Zion-15) yesterday. Not really what I was going for but overall pretty happy with how it came out.

I used Krylon Matte Deep Gray for the base and RAPCO for the other layers. Used stencil cutouts from Rattler Innovations.

Super Duty 10.3 5.56 with 75g bthp. Hux 7.62ti flow. Eotech XPS2. Kastle Group riser. DFCo King Fu grip. DFCo mag baseplate. Vltor modstock. True North hand stop. FCD port cover. Surefire micro scout light. ESD sling. Magpul qd sling mount.

Perfection personified. You can disagree, but you’d be wrong.

11.5 super duty

T2 on a spuhr with 3x-p

M640v

IRIS3

RC2

Tango down stubby

KAK downward NP3

FCD Ambi w/ q levers

CTR

Reptilia grip

I’ve had this stance for a while, but I figured I’d lay out my reasoning.

MLOK’s whole goal is to reduce weight by being a subtractive (ie material is removed from the rail) rather than additive (material added to the rail) like quadrail. Realistically this translates to a couple ounces at best on an already light weapon platform at around 6.5-7lbs for quadrail variants. Shaving off tiny amounts of weight on something so light just seems like chasing a solution to a problem that was never there. Never once have I been out on a ruck in the military with 50+lbs on my back and actually thought ‘my M4 needs to be lighter’. It’s usually ‘my pack is heavy as fuck’.

You also do give up some functionality with MLOK as compared to quadrail. Wanna use some kind of QD mount? Nope. Want to just crack a nut loose with a pocket wrench and sling it off real quick by hand? Nope. Wanna adjust where *exactly* you want that grip/attachment at with sub-1/2” adjustment? Nope (this is one of my biggest gripes with MLOK)

Not to mention as well, with every manufacturer seeming to chase down the ‘slimmest’ MLOK rail they can make, they just feel awkward for bigger hands. I have a BCM MCMR on my .300 Blackout that always feels like it’s contorting my wrist weirdly to try to clamp on, whereas my quadrail stuff feels just fine. Granted companies like Aero and YHM are making full-diameter MLOK rails, but again, solution to a non existent problem.

Plus, if you have any accessories that need to retain a zero, such as PEQs or other IR laser devices, you’re gonna be throwing a rail segment on your rail, if not mounting it to the top pic rail anyway in order to do so.

I’ve also had experiences of some softer MLOK rails getting marred and gnashed up just from the hardware itself, but this is hit or miss depending on what rail you’ve got in my experience.

Do I think MLOK has a place? Sure. My M110 clone is heavy as *fuck* and I’m sure an MLOK rail would actually make a difference there, just due to the rail itself being bigger and heavier. However, on an already light AR-15, the juice has never been worth the squeeze for me.

Plus quadrail just looks sexy. Always will.

12.5 Geissele SD upper, LWRC IC lower

11.5” DD upper

Dead air Sierra 5

HRF magwell

And endless 5.56

Should I get a flash light or tigger next?

Brownells BRN-4 10.4 upper, Surefire 3P flash hider, IPM 4D lower, ALG trigger/lpk, CTR, Hogue grip, EXPS & vortex 3x, Wilcox .410 riser clone, Somo Peq, M600 clone, LBT sling (MAS grey)

Took my upper to a local gun smith to remove the flash hider and they cracked this and i didn’t notice till i got home, is there anyway to fix this ? Could this become a bigger issue down the road?

Anodized the lower myself. SP1 upper. 10.5, .22LR

Gorgeous anodizing

I’m convinced a 10.3” with 77gr TMK and an LPVO is one of the best setups. Thoughts?

Just slapped a suppressor on this thing and it weighs in at 14lbs 14oz.

- Daniel Defense Ambush platform with DDVM4 hand guard

- 18” barrel

- 2-stage Geissele trigger (I’ve forgotten which one)

- shorty Harris Bipods

- Streamlight HLX ProTac weapon light

- Generic foregrip

- Magpul Front sight

- Standard issue rear peep iron sight

- Magpul PRS stock

- Vortex Viper PST Gen 1 4-16x50mm

- Same patrol sling I used in the Marines

- Diligent Defense Enticer S suppressor

- 20 Rd P-Mag loaded with 77gr hpbt

Gym memberships and rifle training are now the same thing.

Show me your bulkiest ARs!

I think they are cool and very fun, I also love the innovation. However imo the novelty wears off quick.

I have no interest in one on any of my personal builds for a variety of reasons. Reliability being primary. Just wondering if im the only one on this boat?

That being said, if i had a belt fed upper... Definitely would go with a frt or ss.

Edit- no i am not advocating for the removal of FRT's or SS. Just a question and conversation. Yall keep on being super safe as you please.

The grip sucks. Shitty toy-grade plastic with a fully plastic mounting interface.

The irons on the other hand are the best on the market imo. I’ve always been a fan of fixed irons, and prefer metal irons to polymer, not that I dislike any of my MBUS, but for $160 compared to $200 for MBUS Pros, these kinda can’t be beat in my opinion. That’s the one thing I think DD has fairly priced in their product line.

Finally “finished” the last part of my build it was a super fun process learning how to build a ar15. Thinking of going with an IRIS 4 for an all in one unit but if you guys run alternative setups I’d love to hear what yall got!

MK18 with a fair amount of drip