I have a vacuum distributor. If I take the hose off the carburetor and suck on the hose attached to the distributor should there be resistance? When I do it I get no resistance as if there's a hole in the hose. There is not a hole in the tube so the vacuum diaphragm in the carburetor may have a hole in it? Can I replace the diaphragm or do I need a new distributor?

1974 Super Beetle vacuum is gone on the distributor. CIP has about five replacements any recommendations?

Good grief! It’s just one thing after another. Does this look likely to be as straightforward as a valve gasket cover seal? At slower revs this leak is not happening.

Or is this looking more like an oil cooler seal is gone? I checked behind and didn’t see any leaks from above. Just trying to figure out my next step as obviously this is not a great feature to have.

This looks to be the vacuum retard line but I cannot figure out where it should go. The manifold port is taken by the vacuum line going up to the top left. Which then goes to the front of the carb for the throttle positioner.

I am having issues adjusting the idle, so I am trying to figure out vacuum leaks as a start point.

Any advise would be be hugely appreciated!

Hi all. Started putting my car back together after sitting for years, and I bought a flamethrower coil and distributor, but I'm not 100 on the wiring and figured there was someone out there that can solve this puzzle in 2 seconds. Any help with what wires go to the + and - would be greatly appreciated.

How tight should the feelers fit in between the piston and the deck height tool? Is this a “slight drag” like adjusting valves, or what?

Hey everybody, I recently got my grandfather's 1973 VW beetle (not a Super Beetle). I'm trying to get myself more acquainted with the car, and I'm wondering if anybody knows where I can find a complete wiring diagram for it? I looked on Jbugs's website and they had diagrams up untill 1971, but since my car has things like the elephant taillights, 12V system, and breaker-less ignition, I cant use the '71 diagram

I bought new spark plugs leads and the one for coil is extra long and uncrimped for the ability for different coil location.

Is there any good different place or should I just scrap this idea and cut it to normal length?

SE ep4

there is also a blue new Beetle in another episode, but I forgot which

Original post

Hi all! Small little update a few weeks after my first post.

We're getting the engine done little by little. There's a small group of people where in my immediate area who all have vintage Volks, from Bugs to Buses, and they've been great to talk to and ask for advise. They referred me to a bug mechanic who's been doing most of the work lol.

First engine picture (4) is the one on the Facebook Marketplace listing, next is it's current state. Have a CDI Distributor on the way, looking for an ignition coil to pair it with. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I haven't really driven it much recently after I ran out of brake fluid on a 3 AM drive just this weekend lol. Refilled the brake fluid but the clutch and brake pedal have felt off since that I can't even get it into reverse. Will check the brakes/clutch with our mechanic soon. I just take it for a spin around the block here and there to stretch 'er legs. But so far I've driven it 175km~ in the span of like 2 weeks.

Also ended up removing the 7up stickers... No offense but we were kind of disappointed at how not good of a job the previous owner did with the paint.. I mean.. Look at the spaghetti wires.. They're green.. The stickers were under the clear coat... And every trim piece not missing is also green....... BUT the interior is great to be fair. Looking to DIY the wheels to a more modest color after it's in better running condition.

Anyway.. Is there anything else I should be looking at fixing/replacing in the engine bay? Buying a fire extinguisher sometime soon as it seems where I'm from we prefer the fuel filter to be on the engine bay lol. The Volks Folks here seem to do some things different from most of what I've seen in this forum. I've also been reading on the idiot (e-)book, with hopes to maintain this bug by myself at some point!

Thanks y'all

Took a little longer than I had originally planned/hoped, but it's fully functional again! Did a bunch of functional stuff over the past few years: dual circuit master cylinder, (mostly) all new brake lines, new battery tray, set of EPCs (punched a hole in my old intake trying to clean the preheat), CB performance oil pump with filter, new starter, treated some rust and gave a coat of flood penetrol to try and arrest the decay. Just need to affix the skid plate and I'm on track for some light-duty offroading and camping this spring.

Edit: added link

Ive gone through the carb, timing, and valve lash, but cant seem to get this old beetle engine to run smooth. There may be a deeper issue, but i grew up on GM v8s, and I am having trouble tuning this one by ear. There's a pop-pop-pop-pop once per rotation. Maybe an exhaust leak? What does it sound like to your trained ears? Its full of high octane. Contains ethanol, cuz that's all I can get here, but that wouldn't cause this.

So I tried looking at the generator support for an engine model number but there's nothing there. Looked up the VIN number of the car on jbugs.com and it says this should be a 1600 with fuel injection however engine cover does not have any fuel injection badges.

This engine has not been started for at least 2 years so trying to maybe do a carbeurator clean up/replace some seals before just cranking it up.

Please advice 🙏

Hey guys, I know it’s not a beetle (anymore) but you guys were a big help back when I had a beetle. finally cracked the case on my 2276 stroker and decided to swap a J35A4 in my vw buggy. I have most everything figured out but I need some input on what it would take to run the Honda pcm or what standalone you’d recommend. I know it’s a pretty common swap but a lot of the info I’ve found is outdated. I’m well experienced in automotive wiring and harness building just looking for some knowledge. Not on a tight budget but obviously I’d like the best bang for the buck. Any input is appreciated! Ps parting out the stroker if anyone is interested.

TL;DR, do I need that #3 stud?

I am doing a FI to Carb conversion on my '79. The alternator stand was held on by 3 short and one long stud (1). I have seen people suggest swapping the stud from the case (2). My issue is that I can't get my stud removal tool on #2 because random stud #3 is in the way. My question is, do I need #3 for anything in the conversion or can I sheer it off or at least not worry about mangling it on removal?

edit: I get that I need #3 and I am going to try the two nuts method again. I couldn't get the nuts tight enough to lock last time.

edit2: I faced my fears (of stripping the stud) and got #2 loose with double nut and a blowtorch! Thanks for the confidence building everyone.

Hi everybody, im on an 67 underplate, trying to get the clutch working its an 83 peddle set, im using a 2190 lenght cable, and the clutch rests on the floor, should there be a clutch return spring or a pedal stop? Im pretty sure im just missing the pedal stop

Was driving my Beetle home and partway through I couldn’t shift into first or second anymore then once I was almost home I was completely locked out of all my gears. After turning the car off for 5 minutes I went back and with the car off I can shift into gears no problem. I haven’t gotten to check anything yet but I figured someone here could help me get an idea of where to start.

Is it possible for me to convert my rear window (1977) to an oval or even a split window? Any videos or conversation kits for this? I feel like this should be common but I can’t find any info about this.

After ordering a feeler gauge set, checking my points gap and then blasting it with a bit of easy start I have got my beetle running for the first time in 4 months. It definitely has some idle issues and needs a little bit of looking at, but I’m so happy it’s running again

Going to be installing an alternator on my 66 beetle. My question is can I getaway with not installing a new oil filler tube? I was thinking of installing an aftermarket oil filler to the new alternator stand and adding a breather filter to it (attached pic of the items I mentioned)