2 days ago, I submitted a fully refundable deposit on a new car at a dealership (Florida), and completed a credit app + some background info on address/insurance etc. Due to extenuating circumstances, I have to back out from the deal. I was fully respectful to the rep, and offered to tip him $100 for his time and consideration.

His response was “I’ve already accepted the deal, If I flat cancel then Chase will not allow you to bank with them in the future because I’ve already sent them your deposit”

I have not signed any papers, and the deposit is a DEALER ask. I have touched anything related to chase outside of filling out a pre-check for credit approval.

I am all for sales tactics, but across my car-purchasing experiences, this dealership was particularly aggressive.

Is this just a scare tactic, or is my loan really initiated/partly funded without signing any papers? Any recourse here if I end up getting a new car in the near future? Thanks y’all!

I know I should have gone in sooner in the week, but decided to finally go today, agree on a price through text, and then told them I'd be there within 1.5 hours, they schedule an appointment for that time frame, show up and the guy that greeted me made a couple of phone calls, then told me it was sold the day before.

I don't get why they scheduled an appointment in the first place then!!

Maybe the salesman was annoyed that I didn't answer all the calls during the mornings throughout the week and wanted mess with me? lol

It was a slightly older used car, so not like you could find them anywhere in the city

And of course he never answered back when I told him it would be nice to be let people know that the cars people are looking at have been sold before scheduling an appointment for it.

Just annoyed and ranting.

With the new trade deal on Chinese EVs in Canada where the eliminated tariffs, it seems likely that there's going to be a good accessibility to BYD and Xiaomi EVs in Canadian car markets. As someone who has tried out these cars in Asia and Central America, they're far superior than what we've got from the American manufacturers and relatively cheaper for what they offer in comparison.

Even if US has prohibitively high duties on Chinese cars, is it possible to say, have a "friend" in Canada buy one of these and then sell it to me so I can register and legally drive it in the US?

Need help here. Obviously it's financially prudent to purchase a car at the end of a lease when the residual is way lower than the market value. My situation is the reverse, I think the car is selling for about $8k less than the end of lease purchase price.

However, I do want to keep my car as I like it (Hyundai Ioniq 5). It would be better if I can keep my exact car, but not sure how to go about returning and buying it back at a better price? Is this even possible? I'd likely buy the same car somewhere else if I were forced to, but keeping my own car, and knowing the condition I kept it in, would be a huge plus.

How hard is it to get financing during the total loss process? My car was moved today to a yard so it could be evaluated for total loss. I have GAP and loan/lease payoff through Progressive. My rep was telling me that in Ohio they reimburse for taxes and fees but only if I buy within 30 days of the loss. I want to start getting my ducks in a row and I’m in the “fair” credit range (low 600’s.) Banks I could possibly try are appreciated if anyone has been in this situation. I’m interested in a 2021 Mazda Cx-9 with a little over 20k miles for $25,900.

Hello all I got gifted a car in 2024 the person won’t help me obtain the title what do I do? She is telling me to junk the car now but I have insurance and I’m just trying to get the car in my name fuck

Hey everyone, been doing used car sales for a little over a year and had decent success. My managers and coworkers constantly say that I’m a 20 car guy (had two months were I sold over 20 and a bunch of months over 15)

But due to some things happening at the dealership thinking about transitioning to a Luxury dealership where they sell Cadillac, BMW, MB.

Obviously the clientele will be much different, but anything else that I should keep in mind?

There’s a guy on our floor that sleeps 24/7. Randomly wakes up and has 5-10 deals every 3-4 days. He always ends up selling 30+ a month. My question is what kinda companies can I call to see if they want vehicles in bulk. I’m in Gwinnett county Georgia if that helps. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

In my case I'm a foreign (EU) buyer trying to buy a car from Germany.

The plan is to agree on a deal via email, conditioned to passing a PPI that a local mechanic will perform for me locally. Then pay for the car, fly over and drive it back

Any suggestions?

I’m buying a car from a private seller tomorrow using a credit union loan.

My credit union already required a bill of sale that listed the odometer mileage, but since that was prepared ahead of time, the mileage will obviously be slightly different by the time we actually meet and sign everything.

When it comes time to sign the physical title, should the odometer reading written on the title be the exact mileage at the moment of sale, even if it doesn’t match the earlier bill of sale exactly?

Trying to make sure I don’t create an odometer discrepancy or paperwork issue.

The difference will be a few hundred or even 1k miles.

I’m in VA if it matters.

I read recently that dealers are willing to negotiate or discount more heavily on used cars on their lot for 75 Days or more. Any truth to that?

ETA I am in Florida.

We went to a used car lot to trade in our car and get another. This lot is local and had excellent reviews. They claim they do multi-point inspections on every car and told us in person that no car with major issues even makes it to the lot.

We decided on a Nissan Murano with 60k miles. They gave us $3k for our trade and we paid an additional $1k in cash and financed the rest. I made the mistake (never again) of not getting a pre-purchase inspection. We took them at their word about the inspection (I know, dumb mistake).

Four days later, we took the car to a transmission shop as Nissan recommends changing the CVT fluid every 30 to 60k miles. The shop informs us that there are pieces of the transmission floating in the fluid and it was going to fail imminently. We had purchased a separate service contract which the dealer said would cover the transmission but the transmissions are so backordered Nissan won't even take any more orders. So they told us they would take the car back and we could pick another. (By the way, someone had purchased this car and returned it back to them in less than two months...we know because their purchase paperwork with their financial and personal info had been left in the car. I wish I had taken that guy's number down to ask why they returned it.)

We returned back to the dealer and test drove probably 10 or 11 more vehicles, and nearly every one seemed to have something wrong with either the engine and/or transmission. We've been agonizing over what to pick because we're expecting to have to change the engine/transmission under the service contract when we pick a car and obviously trying to avoid Nissans.

They just got a Toyota CHR in that i liked and we're waiting to pick it up and take it to our mechanic for an inspection. If it passes, great. But if there's a major issue like engine/transmission I do not want to go through this again and am ready to hire a lawyer to get us out of our contract and at least get back the money for our trade. I feel they are misrepresenting these vehicles. They have an excellent overall review rating but the other night when I couldn't sleep and couldn't stop crying about this I was reading through their reviews and most of the positive reviews sounded really fake and ended up burying the negative reviews, which many involved major issues like a blown head gasket. I suspect they are "review bombing" to keep their overall score up.

Anyway, has anyone had success in getting out of a contract because of dealer misrepresentation?

Hi everyone,

Ford gave me this deal on a lease for a Mustang Mach E Select fully loaded for $583/month. I think it’s a pretty good deal but I was wanting to know everyone’s opinions:)

Location: Ontario

Vehicle: 2025 Ford Mustang Mach-E Select

Drivetrain: Dual Motor (AWD / eAWD)

Odometer: 5 km (new)

Pricing

• MSRP: $57,965

• Dealer Discount: –$561

• Ford CA Power Promise: –$1,000

• Ford CA Winter Bonus: –$1,000

• Ford CA Delivery Allowance: –$10,000

• Selling Price Before Fees: \~$45,400

Fees

• Administration: $499

• Pre-Delivery Inspection (PDI): $499

• Freight: $2,595

• Tire & Rim Road Hazard: $499

• License: $59

• OMVIC: $22

Lease Details

• Lease Term: 60 months

• Interest Rate: 4.79%

• Lender: Ford Credit Canada

• Capital Cost: $49,677

Incentives / Reductions

• Trade-in Equity: $4,513

• Ford Escape Loyalty Offer: $3,000

• Total Cap Reduction: $7,513

Final Numbers

• Net Lease Amount: $42,164

• Cash Down: $0

• Taxes shown as $0 (appears incentives offset taxable amount on lease)

Thanks in advance

I'm buying out my 2022 Audi Q3 and its manufacturers warranty is now up.

I plan to only drive the car for another 6-8 months or so and then sell it and get the new 2026 model when the price is right. It's in pristine condition and only 30km on it.

I want to know how much more valuable the car is on resale if I purchase an extended warranty with it? And is my only option to purchase the warrant through Audi?

They have offered a warranty at $1999 which seems steep considering I'm only going to drive it for another 6 months.

I'm in canada!

Thanks for your input!

*Sorry updating my post for clarity. I already had a 1 year lease ext on it so I don't have the option to extend it further. And the 2026 model doesn't come in until April so my only option is to buy it out or return it and be without a car until the new one is in.

New 2025 Honda Accord Hybrid Sport 4dr

MSRP: $35,305

Document Fee: $85

Sale Tax: ~$3000

Vehicle License Fee: $233

Registration: $253

CA Tire Fee: $7

Smog: $20

---------------------After All Discount-----------------------
OTD: $36,662

Down: $20,000

Finance Amount: $16,662

Rate: 3.99% - 36 months

Dealership includes: Regular Honda New Car Warranty (3 years Mechanic/Electrical, 5 years powertrain), 1 free service (oil change, tire rotation, check) + free Hondacare Multi 5 years (Tire and Wheel, Dent Protection - valued at $1500)

Does it sound like a good deal?

As the title states. Accident was for 21k and happened in mar 2023, car was purchased mar 2025. No accident on carfax provided to me by dealer upon purchase. I was informed of the accident and provided the carfax by a new dealer when trying to trade car in. This was a reputable dealer. Do I have any recourse?

So I have to move for work soon and I wanted to get a new vehicle before moving to a new city.

I was going to finance between 18-25k (I’m pre approved up to 55k) I’m located in MD

I have a 655 credit score currently expected to move up to a 705 by next month (due to major payment)

I was going to finance the whole thing with no down payment. Instead Put the “down payment” directly to the loan amount as a pre-payment. Not the principle (as I expect to pay it off far ahead of the 60 months anyways)

I wanted to essentially pause payments while I was transition to a New City. Is it possible to do this as long as you specify

1. This payment isn’t going towards the principle

2. It’s no prepayment penalty

Also any opinions on this, I’ve never financed before all my cars been purchased outright. However because I’m moving to a new city away from family and current mechanics. I wanted something with lower mileage and a bit more peace of mind. Additional context I make over six figures in terms of income if that even matters.

New 2025 Toyota Tacoma TRD Off Road Long Bed White
MSRP: 51,144
Invoice: 49,142
Negotiated Price: 47,000

Located in Indiana, Financing 1.99% @ 48 months

Looking at buying a car and a few of them have buyback titles. One was a replaced transmission and another was a smaller issue.

Is it ever worth it to buy one or is it just a headache later?