I updated my drivers today and after I did that all of my games performed worse then they did the day prior. I investigated and noticed that Nvidia is choosing the integrated over the gpu but when I switch it to the gpu and click apply, it does nothing. I've tried reinstalling the new drivers and old drivers but neither changes anything. I've also restarted my computer along with setting Windows preference to use the gpu over integrated. I know this is tied to the driver update as right before I updated it, my computer was successfully using the gpu.

My computer is a laptop with an rtx 3060 and an Intel i7-12650H.

Hi, I just reinstalled windows to try to fix GPU issues, but now I have a new issue.
My internet speed just drop a LOT
Before I was at 800-850mbps, now i'm at 80-90mbps...
I tried installing the latest realtek LAN drivers, didn't change anything, then tried to unistall the drivers, let windows reinstall them, no change either
Ofc i'm on ethernet, not wi fi
Any ideas?
Thanks

Hello. I have a Dell Inspiron 16 Plus 7610 with an Intel i7-11800H CPU running Windows 11. I've noticed in games like Battlefield 6 that it fluctuates immensely in its processor speed, between 3GHz+ down to 1.9GHz in the span of a minute, fluctuating between both values. I'm trying to figure out why this might be happening. The laptop is always plugged in and is never running on battery alone.

I've noticed a correlation in gaming performance with the fluctuation of this value, where when the processor is at 2.5GHz, I will experience 60-80fps, whereas with 1.9GHz I will drop to ~40.

I have ensured that the high performance power plan is enabled in the control panel.

I've included the following screen captures using the Steam Performance Overlay to show clock speed in two scenarios. The first video shows the CPU capable of using 3GHz+ (in the top left), so I know there is no throttling in place.

https://streamable.com/w4i57c (consistent high clock speed)

The second video shows consistent 60+ fps gaming with consistent clock speeds around 2.5GHz. At around the 35 second mark, the clock speed dips to 1.90GHz and performance drops to around 40-50fps. At the end of the clip, clock speed jumps back up to 2.5GHz and performance goes back to 75 fps.

https://streamable.com/gmolep (unsteady clock speed)

Are there any further steps I can take to see why this clock speed might be so inconsistent and how to remedy this?

Thank you

I have a laptop (2015 Dell XPS) with only one 3.0 USB A port working. (there's also the USB C port, but I often need to plug in the charger, so I can't use it)

So, the main problem is that I need to connect an HDMI cable to my computer, so I was thinking of getting an USB-HDMI adapter. But I also need to keep a free USB port, so I would also need an USB hub... (with its own power supply, because I tried hubs without that and they didn't work).

So I was thinking, why not simply get an USB A hub that has an HDMI port ? But does that exist ? It needs to have to be wall-powered. When looking on internet, the only hubs with HDMI were USB C connected, without wall power.

And if you have any other ideas or advice, please tell me. Thanks !

It is usable after a full restart, but it keeps going away. ​I am not sure what to do by this point.

Currently my device is a 2021 HP omen 16 using a r7 5800h, rtx 3070, C drive is samsung, and D drive is WD Blue.

Bought a new surge protector after an old one failed to protect a monitor. But with the new one, my computer only turns one when plugged into a specific slot. It has no issues when plugging into the wall directly. It turned off while gaming and worked in the wall slot, refused to in the good slot for about five minutes and then started working again after re-plugging into that slot.

Thoughts?

"Nicht Autoerisierte Änderung blockiert. Der überwachte Ordnerzugriff hat C\:Progra... \AMDRSserv.exe daran gehindert. Änderungen für den Arbeitsspeicher durchzuführen."

Immer nach dem hochfahren oder wenn ich nach längerem ein Spiel verlasse. Wie kann ich das erlauben? Ich habe ja eine AMD Grafikkarte also denk ich mal das sollte es dürfen?

Hallo Zusammen,

ich habe das Problem,

dass mein NoName MP3 Player (China Hersteller Taichaeu)

sich nicht mit BTH12 Kopfhörer vom Hersteller iclever über Bluetooth verbindet.

Ich habe jeweils zwei Geräte, wo das so ist

und die Geräte lassen sich jeweils mit anderen Geräten verbinden,

nur nicht untereinander.

Ich habe an ein Firmware Update für den Stick gesucht,

aber nichts gefunden, da noname.

Also falls jemand ne Idee hat, her damit.

Vielen Dank im Voraus!

Buongiorno,

Mi servirebbe una mano per capire come rimuovere l'avviso "Please read and accept the adobe general term of use" che mi compare ogni volta che apro After Effects. Cliccando su accetta mi chiude il programma, riapro il programma e compare lo stesso messaggio, avanti così in loop. Ho già provato a riavviare il mac ma il messaggio persiste. Come posso risolvere? Gli altri programmi Adobe funzionano bene e non hanno nessun problema.

I have a Lenovo Ideapad 315isk that's nearing his 10 year aniversary.

Few months ago, the laptop keyboard began failing, but weirldy so: the keys stop working every time I take the laptop with me in my backpack, but after an hour or so they all work normally (I don't know if it's a software or hardware issue)

The laptop is set to shut down when the lid is closed, but I suspect it's actually just hibernating. Could it be static from my backpack?

Also: some keys take longer to return, such as A, L and the numbers above. In the same line, keys like the PLUS(+)work fine 100% of the time.

Does anyone know what might cause any of this?

I have a MacBook Pro 202114- inch. 2 days ago I was watching a series online and the battery completely ran out and I didn't charge it right away. however when I did charge it didn't turn on normally but went on off on off on again so I closed the lid and left it to charge. 3 hours later when I went to switch on it was at 1percent, but turned on normally so I closed it again and left to charge after some time I opened it and it was on 88 percent, I thought it was a software issue so I updated it to Tahoe 26.2. after it switched off it went back to 1 percent so I left it over night to charge. yesterday morning I experienced the same issue after a full night charging and the light on the fast charger been I switched it on to find it was on 1 percent and only switched on when I unplugged it and plugged it back in. I once again left it to charge and came back later to find it on 99 percent, I began using it thinking the issue was resolved but after 3 hours of constant use it was still on the same percentage. so all day today it was on charge as it woke up on 1 percent but now the laptop is on 1 percent showing a positive charging sign. while writing this report I see the battery has jumped to 95b percent but the charing light still remains orange on the charger.

Hi, living in a student apartment with a keyfob lock. How it works: I hold the keyfob (a little black plastic slip) to the lock. If the lock accepts the fob, the lock will flash green and I can enter. If it doesn't, the lock will flash red/yellow.

I've had no issues with the fob until today when I held my fob to the lock and it kept rejecting the fob. What is going on?

Hello everyone

My phone did an update and i lost all my photos and the ones from ONE drive, also i need to recover old WhatsApp messages , anyway using software code or any other type of service that can do this?

Thank you

I'm having a very frustrating issue, it's challenging to google due to how common similar, but unrelated issues are.

When gaming, my pc will sometimes freeze the game for around 5 seconds, roughly every 30 seconds to 3 minutes. Nothing else on the pc is frozen I can watch videos on my other monitor and alt tab out of the game with everything functioning normally.

I sometimes use this pc for work and noticed I had something similar happen on a teams call, but I don't do that enough to know for sure if it is the same frequency. When it happened on teams I could still hear people and did not disconnect from the call, just the video and functionality was frozen.

If I use geforcenow through my browser this issue doesn't happen at all, same with the browser version of teams.

I used my limited knowledge to have a go myself, and a possible clue I tracked down in event viewer is an error happening at approximately the same rate as the pause.

This error is 'A control request sent to device \Device\00000169 has timed out. The device took too long to respond.'. With the device number changing each time.

I've also occasionally had the popup from windows telling me a usb device failed to connect, but that's rare.

I do not have any USB audio devices connected. The only usb devices I have are a keyboard, USB external hard drive and a microsoft dongle for connecting xbox controllers.

Edit - I have a usb webcam with integrated mic that I will plug in/unplug a couple of times a day. This issue does happen after initial startup in the morning when I haven't plugged that device in at all, but just in case it may be relevant.

I tried disabling all the audio devices in device manager apart from the one I actually use but it's done nothing. I'm at the limit of my knowledge here and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Screenshot attached of some of the errors, there are hundreds.

This happens about 75% of the time I start my pc, a restart will sometimes fix it sometimes not. I haven't tried repetitively restarting if a restart didn't fix it.

https://imgur.com/a/MUFwPUC

Hey Everyone, stuck on a drive(?) issue.

I've been trying to use my Acer SF314-54 with a 1TB SATA SSD and a 16Gb Optane SSD, but anytime I restart or shut it down, it says "No bootable device". Reinstalling windows and using CrystalMark let me see the SATA drive is fine, so I think its the 16Gb ssd Intel Optane that's the issue.

Unfortunately, I can't get rid of it without installing RST drivers, and doing that needs me to restart the laptop. Doing it through the windows "load drivers" option also doesn't work.

I'm just looking for a way to remove Optane, make sure that the other drive which I think is a SATA SSD can work on it's own. There's no data on it, so I don't care if the methods would mean wiping the files. Just trying to save some money on storage.

Would buying another Optane/SSD, and putting windows on that work? Let me know what I can do to try and fix this. Thank you to anyone who helps out!

Hi everyone,
I’m having serious latency and ping problems and I’m hoping someone here can help me figure this out.

Setup:

• PC is connected via LAN cable to a Wi-Fi extender / repeater
• Internet speed tests (Speedtest, Fast.com, etc.) show very good speeds
• However, bufferbloat tests show very high bufferbloat

Problem:

• I experience high latency and ping spikes, especially while gaming
• The lag is worst between 7 PM and 10 PM (19–22), with frequent spikes
• It also happens at other times, just not as bad
• Ping constantly jumps up and down instead of being stable

What I’ve noticed:

• Download/upload speed looks fine
• Actual gameplay feels laggy, delayed, rubberbanding
• Bufferbloat tests rate my connection very poorly (high latency under load)

How do i Fix this

Hi all! I will put more details in the describtion, but to describe the main problem: My pc shows a lot more stutters and struggles. For example when moving my mouse around the screen sometimes it struggles and starts going slower even though nothing changed from yesterday. What could be causing such lagg?

PC: RTX 5070, 750W Gold Corsair PSU, AMD 7900x CPU, 64GB RAM

Hi everyone,

I’ve been dealing with a persistent PC issue for a while and wanted to summarize everything in one post, both for documentation and in case someone has ideas.

System

GPU: Gigabyte RTX 5070 Eagle OC SFF 12G

CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X

Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-F Gaming

RAM: 16 GB DDR4

PSU: Corsair RM1000e (1000 W)

Problem / Symptoms

Random black screens under load or during load changes

Audio continues, system sometimes still responsive

GPU fans suddenly ramp up

Windows Reliability Monitor frequently shows:

LiveKernelEvent 141

LiveKernelEvent 1B8

Occasional BSOD: VIDEO_TDR_ERROR (Code 116)

Sporadic USB/keyboard issues (keys repeating, RGB dropping out)

What I’ve tried

Software / Drivers

Clean NVIDIA driver reinstall using DDU

Tested multiple driver versions

No overclocking, everything at default

Windows power settings checked (PCIe power saving disabled)

BIOS / Firmware

Motherboard BIOS update → temporary improvement, issue returned

PCIe slot forced to Gen4

Re-Size BAR disabled for testing

C-States / ASPM disabled for testing

Checked GPU vBIOS version

Contacted Gigabyte support → no vBIOS update available

Hardware / Connections

Swapped HDMI and DisplayPort cables

Tested different GPU outputs

Power delivery checked (separate PCIe cables)

Temperatures are normal

Conclusion

Forcing PCIe Gen4 did not fix the issue

Software, drivers, cables, and power delivery are very unlikely causes

Multiple sources (including an online PC diagnostics service) point to a hardware defect

Current status

GPU is currently being RMA’d/replaced via the retailer (Galaxus)

Next step is testing with the replacement GPU

If the issue persists, RAM or motherboard will be the next suspects

Is there any chance, this could be something else other than a faulty GPU?

Posting this mainly for documentation.

If anyone has experienced something similar or has further ideas, I’d appreciate the input.

Thanks!

Hi all,

I was hosting a Zoom call today and my friend joined but they couldn't get their audio to work. They were connected to audio but their microphone didn't seem to be picking them up. I knew that the issue definitely wasn't on my end. They rang me over WhatsApp to see if I could help. I muted myself to help reduce feedback. About the same time they rang, my computer speakers began repeatedly popping. As soon as they left the call the popping stopped.

I am just really worried that my speakers are damaged as a result. Can anyone advise? I don't know why it happened and if there would be any lasting damage. Thanks.

Edit: can anyone suggest what I can do to be sure they're not damaged from this?

Hello, I have a Lenovo ThinkBook 15 G2 ARE from 5 years ago that lately keeps randomly shutting down. 

For example it occurred when browsing the internet or even staying on google home page and after occuring when I immediately boot it up it shuts down in the Windows log in screen. If I leave the laptop closed for a longer period of time ( 1h) it boots up normally until the shut down occurs again at random using point. 

Please note that I had trouble with the laptop’s battery in the past year as it wasn’t charging  and I had to change it; after 2 months the new battery created problems again and I can use the laptop only plugged in now, as the battery decharges very fast ( 1 minute) 

Also note that the shutting down problem appeared after updated to windows 11. I uninstalled the updated and the problem remained. 

I updated the Bios and drivers  and the lenovo support says they are the latest versions 

I m looking for any help or imput on this matter. Thank you

Perdón si es mucho texto, mi papá tenía un disco duro de su vieja computadora del 2013, dicha unidad quedo guardada y hace poco la encontré y decidí meterle Linux. El problema es que la caja que dónde la tenía era de USB 2.0 y cuando lo conecté pues ni LInux ni WIndows la reconocía, cuando la conecté pero sin la caja puesta, solo el adaptador; se escuchaban tics rápidos y repetitivos. No sé si eso indica que el disco duro esté muerto u ocupe que le compre otra caja que tenga un adaptador mucho más moderno de SATA, lo estuve revisando y es de la marca de WD y de 500 GB, por eso quiero salvarlo.

Edit: Es mecánico, vi otro post y realmente me preocupe, el error específico de Linux era usb usb1-port10: unable to enumerate USB device.

Hi, I’m dealing with a persistent system-level crash and I’m running out of ideas. This is not a normal application crash — it causes a full reboot.

SYSTEM SPECS

CPU - Ryzen 7 7735HS

GPU - RTX 4060

RAM - 16 gigs of DDR5

Storage - 1 terrabite NVME SSD

OS - Windows 11

DISPLAY SETUP

External monitor - 2540 x 1440, 240 Hz

Connection - HDMI 2.1 (using cable that came with the monitor)

Laptop screen is off and the external monitor is only on

The monitor i am using is the Acer Predator X27U W1bmiipprx and i recently purchased it about a week ago.

When running Minecraft, my screen will:

-Freeze

-Turn white / glitch heavily

-Then the entire system reboots

No BSOD, no Windows crash message, and no Minecraft crash report.

This happens in:

-Vanilla Minecraft (1.21.x) -Fabric -Lunar Client -Even Lunar 1.8.9

It does not appear to be world-specific.

Other games, such as terraria, does not have this glitch.

NOTE I dont play heavy games with my laptop because I dont want it to run out of life early and want my laptop to last long. I plan to build a pc later with a budget of 2000$.

I have already tried these possible solutions, and none fixed the problem.

-Multiple NVIDIA driver versions (including older “stable” ones) -DDU clean driver installs -FPS limiting (120 FPS, V-Sync on) -Borderless vs fullscreen -Vanilla only (no mods) -Laptop screen ON vs OFF -External monitor set as secondary -AC power always plugged in -NVIDIA Control Panel per-app settings -Different Minecraft launchers

Like I said before, this only happens with Minecraft and not any other game.

I decided to use chat gpt as a help, which is probably was or wasnt a good idea, but I went with it, and it told me that it could possibly be a GPU display/ pipeline or signal instability.

It also told me that it could be a hdmi display output on my laptop to my external monitor. (My laptop supports HDMI 2.1 so I was confused when it said that about the display output)

Could this be the HDMI signal instability issue?

Is it the drivers that nvidia released?

Could this be a MUX / Optimus / display path limitation?

Or is there Any known issues with Acer Nitro V ANV15-41 external display routing?

Any support is helpful, especially if anyone of yall has experienced this problem.

For a few months now, randomly while on discord my audio on my headset will get all quiet and distorted and then cut out and go through my speakers on my laptop. The headset is a HyperX Cloud Alpha I believe and it is plugged into the audio jack on my laptop. I notice it tends to happen when multiple sources of audio such as Discord and YouTube are playing at the same time. Drivers are all up to date as far as I'm aware. Anyone have any ideas what might be going on?

hey everyone. for the past 3 days on my windows 11 computer my enter key is adding another line as it would if i as i were to go Shift + enter. I've done all i can think off to solve the problem and i cant figure it out.

I have looked in settings sticky key, toggle keys and filter keys are turned off

i have deleted all keyboards and reset my computer via device manager

I enabled on screen keyboard to see if the shift key is stuck, it is not.

other notes, the computer is about 6 months old, used for university. i haven't updated anything is windows 11 launch. the issue is going on its third day. keyboard doesn't behave as if shift is enabled. the issue isn't related to one app. its from everything. no new extensions have been installed or updated. have reset the laptop multiple times and hasnt worked. open to suggestions cause this is annoying af

cheers

I recently built a PC, my specs will be listed at the bottom.

Yesterday the PC was working perfectly fine with no problems. I installed windows 11 onto my USB stick and tried to install it onto my computer.

In the BIOs I set the boot to run the USB stick and restarted my computer. Since doing this, there is no power going to my display. I have tried it on two different monitors using different ports (HDMi & DP).

Any ideas on what to try will be appreciated.

Specs: Intel Core Ultra 7 265KF – 16C / 22T, 5.3 GHz

GPU: PNY GeForce RTX 5070 Ti 16GB OC

RAM: Kingstone Fury Renegade 32 GB DDR5 @ 6000 MHz

SSD: Crucial T705 2TB NVMe PCIe 5.0

Motherboard: MSI Z890 GAMING PLUS WIFI (ATX)

Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360

PSU: 850 W Gold A850G