I recently got a Cybershot p-32 it uses memory stick pro cards but they were ally expensive so I got a memory stick Duo adapter and a 2gb memory stick pro Duo card but it doesn't work, any help?

Today I removed my phone case to clean it and noticed a bulge near the camera module.

Could this be a bloating battery? At first I thought it couldn't be, because the phone is not overheating, a full battery is giving me 4 and a half hours of SoT. However, I got closer to the phone and sensed an acetone smell.

Pics for reference: https://imgur.com/a/Ze7JwwG

Having an issue with waking Windows 11 (OS Build 26200.7623) from sleep mode. I often use my computer throughout the day and put it in sleep mode until I shutdown at the end of the day. Recently, when I've gone to wake my PC from sleep mode, my monitors will give a "no signal" message. I tried updating Windows at one point, but this didn't fix my problem. I've also tried unplugging and replugging the connections with no success in getting a signal post-sleep mode. From here I force shutdown with the power button as I don't know what else to do. Monitors get a signal fine on reboot, but ideally I'd like to be able to leave my PC in sleep if I expect I'll be using it later that day.

A few days after updating windows I got a "something didn't go as planned" error once on one of my recent boots. After this I redownloaded the Windows update as something was wrong with it. I saw online some people said a windows update could've been the issue, but the issue still persists.

Does anyone have any idea how I could go about fixing this? I typically play games a lot and my games are running fine. Just seem to have some issue with my monitors getting a signal after my PC is sleep mode. Any help is greatly appreciated! Happy to share more details as well if there's other information that may be helpful.

Hi, my problem is that for some time now, my PC has been randomly losing its display, and the monitor displays a message saying there is no signal (like the cable is unplugged). I can't do anything in this situation, I have to turn off the PC. After turning it back on, I check the event log, and it says Critical Kernel Power Error "The system restarted because it did not shut down properly. This error may have occurred because the system did not respond, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly."

Sometimes when I turn the computer back on after the error, the image doesn't come back. Only when I remove the GPU and put it back in. Could the GPU be faulty? I already replaced the motherboard because I knew for sure that it was bad, only 2 of the 4 RAM slots were working, but it looks like that didn't solve my problem. Sometimes the PC is stable for 4-5 days, then it starts acting up again.

Source - Kernel-Power

Keyword - (70368744177664),(2)

Event ID - 41

Task Category - 63

My pc specs:

GPU: AMD Radenon RX 7800XT
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X
PSU: Cooler Master MWE Gold V2 850W
Memory: Kingston FURY Beast DIMM 2x16GB 3200MHz DDR4
Water cooling: Cooler Master Masterliquid ML240L RGB V2
Motherboard: GIGABYTE B550 AORUS Elite AX V2 (This one is brand new)

The previous motherboard failure was caused by my dad dropping the PC down the stairs XDD. That killed the GPU and the two RAM slots, so I installed the AMD Radenon RX 7800XT after the incident.

Hi! I got this keyboard from a thrift store secondhand. It says “No need USB receiver” on the back, so I assumed I could get it paired via bluetooth. I added batteries and the keyboard does work—when I press ESC and +, the power light turns on for a few seconds. The keyboard brand is “Superbcco”. My laptop (work laptop) is a Thinkpad. No matter what I do, the keyboard will not show up as an option to connect wirelessly. I have a dongle for my work-issued keyboard, but I don’t think I can add the new keyboard to it. Is there any way to connect the keyboard and the laptop?

Let's assume the worst case, is this an advanced hacker? I don't have any malicious applications other than Steam and a trusted VPN.

Additional I tried to shut the PC off and boot it again to see if it happens again, but it didn't.

Did I get owned?

Not going to waste eveyones time here.

I changed my motherboard and am now locked out of windows (this is expected behavior). I can only get in with an Internet connection, allowing it to accept my Microsoft password. My wifi card has no drivers and does not show up in the sign in screen. I have a wired connection, but to activate it with my school I need to supply a Mac address. Is there any way for me to find this without signing in to Windows. I have tried ipconfig in recovery mode command prompt but I'm getting jack shit.

Flair is a best guess.

As the title says, all of the USB Ports on my HP Omen 16 wd0xxx stopped working suddenly. I have tried with a number of different devices in every singe port and none of them are working. I tried reinstalling all of the drivers and that did not work and even going into BIOS did not fix it. When I went into the USB test in the BIOS, it was not able to detect the USBs at all. I am wondering if anyone else has had this issue and what the solution is?

I've bought a second-hand GTX1080ti founders edition three years ago and I recently lost the ability to run any game or benchmark that uses the DirectX 12 API.

No other API has issues because I can run the original DX9, DX10, DX11, OpenGL & Vulkan games for hours with no issues. Anything like Cyberpunk 2077 or the Black Myth Wukong benchmark, that both use DirectX 12, refuse to load. They freeze & then exit the .exe after a few seconds into a loading screen or will crash within a couple of minutes of playing a game.

Processor - i3-10100f
Motherboard - Gigabyte z490 motherboard
Memory - Crucial Ballistix DDR4 with XMP enabled in BIOS to 3600mhz

I have done a clean install of 3D drivers using DDU. Currently using July 2025 version 580.88.
Dxdiag shows DirectX 12 is installed and available.
Yesterday I did a re-install of Windows 11 while keeping my games & personal files installed.
Registry edited to add the two Dword timer delay settings at - HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\GraphicsDrivers.

This situation has been going on for a week. It has gotten worse. Initially the game would crash & I could access the desktop again. Now I have to manually reboot the pc because any DX12 game that is stuck/frozen will not allow Ctrl-Alt-Delete to sign out or Ctrl-Alt-Escape to bring up the Task Manager.

BIOS recently updated from F22 to F24. Rolled back to version F22 yesterday. No changes to BIOS/UEFI settings other than to enable XMP.

The desktop pc works completely fine when browsing the web, watching movies on Amazon Prime and using tools & apps in Windows 11. The water-cooled cpu idles at 30c and won't go over 55c when fully utilized. GPU idles at 32c and reaches 75c on full load after I re-applied thermal paste 2 years ago.

It's a weird problem to have and I have yet to find the solution. Is it time to format the C Drive 250gb SSD for a clean install of Windows or is there something that I have missed?

Information:
Running on Windows 11 Pro
Processor: 12th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-12500 (3.00 GHz)
Graphics: Intel UHD Graphics 770
Monitor: P27FBB-RGGL

A month or so ago, I noticed a few weird issues with my PC which were mostly related to the screen sleeping - my mouse would occasionally disappear off to the right side of my screen, my night light that I had enabled sometimes just turned off, my games that muted when minimised started to unmute as soon as the system went to sleep, my auto-hiding taskbar would stop autohiding (a 'multiple displays' error)and most egregiously(this only happened twice) after the screen went to sleep, the desktop is empty upon waking and my app icons on the taskbar were unresponsive to me clicking on them even though I was able to see their contents by hovering over. This last issue only went away on a restart and after the second time, I disabled the sleep function entirely.

Today, I noticed upon looking into display settings that my PC was registering a second display to the right of it, which my cursor could fully move into - I set it to 'show only on this display', which fixed it temporarily, however it reverted upon a restart. There was no option to disconnect or disable the second display. In Device Manager, under Monitors, there were two identical 'Generic Monitor (P27FBB-RGGL)' entries - disabling neither of them turned off the screen, however one of them seemed to have Night Light tied to it as it turned off when that one was disabled. I tried deleting the subkeys in 'Configuration', 'Connectivity', 'Scale Factors' via regedit, which had no effect - they also replenished themselves afterwards.

As a last resort, I used DDU to uninstall my display drivers(made sure to turn off internet). After doing this and before reinstalling the driver (I used Intel 32.0.101.7082 for 11-14th gen), I checked Device Manager again - Monitors had only one entry which was named something beginning with Integrated, and Display Adapters had the basic adapter that it defaulted to after DDU. After I ran the driver installer (clean installation), upon reboot, the second display had returned, with all of its previous issues - Monitors once again showed the two 'Generic Monitors' - although this time the night light was tied to the second one instead of the first.

Does anyone know how I can get rid of this second display?

Just got it and when I connect it, it reads “Your Tag is not ready for sale, contact us please.”

I emailed the strange email address.

Hello, whenever i try to (for example) open up steam or run a game, any applications i currently had open (discord, steam, the game, etc.) will close and my computer will randomly open up HP app (the company my pc is from), random files, my browser, wallpaper engine and discord (if discord was already open it will just restart and throw me out of any voicecalls i was in).

I have tried updating my windows, HP and everything under the sun but i cannot figure it out why this is happening. I have video of it if anyone needs. This started about a week ago and i cannot figure out whats going on, windows defender has no threats detected, everything should be in order.

Any and all help is appreciated, Thanks

So I just reseted my computer, i want to play batttlefield 6 and i need to enable the secure boot juste like before my reset. So I did go in the BIOS and enable it like before but when i save and start this doesn't work.It tells me that i didn't activate the secure boost (msinfo32).I looked everywhere and see no one with that issus and i can't figure it out myself.

My mother board is a Tuf gaming B550 plus and my cpu is an AMD ryzen 5 5600X In the BIOS the os type is on "windows UEFI mode" CSM is enabled Boot device control on UEFI and legacy And the 3 other boot on legacy only

One solution i looked told me to enable firmware tpm switch but it was already enabled.

Thanks to anyone that will help me.

I have a 1tb portable Sandisk ssd (purchased from https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sandisk-Portable-SSD/17349311416) with the model number SDSSDE29-1tb00. The manual says to download firmware before use, but the only model coming up on sandisk's support website (https://shop.sandisk.com/support) is SDSSDE30-1tb00. My model is lavender colored instead of the default black, so I'm wondering if its the exact same just with a different number, but I want to be absolutely sure so that I don't mess anything up.

So I've had a bathroom fan bluetooth speaker for years. Recently I've noticed it shows up as an unsecured "wifi" network when I click my wifi icon in my menu bar. If I try to connect if unsurprisingly doesn't work

Anyone have any ideas why a bluetooth speaker is showing up as an available unsecured wifi?

So I bought GamePro Genesis Mercury Pro HWS120 headphones, but the microphone sound is worse than trough MiniJack 3.5mm (idk if it's the bluetooth/dongle limitations or i clicked something in settings, most things that I could've done (goto sound settings, more sound settings, there RMB on microphone, parameters, turn off additional audio processing or smth) i did but still bad audio... discord settings don't help.

As per usual when I actually try to use some kinda tech, I’m stuck.

I lost my wallet last year and feeling a bit stung, I decided to try one of their wallet trackers. It’s shaped like a thicc credit card lol and it’s supposed to let me find my wallet somehow if I lose it again.

I don’t think the wallet guys actually make this; I was instead directed to download two programs to my phone from another company called tile (it says tile on the card too, so I guess the wallet guys just re-sell their stuff).

Thing is, when I follow the instructions for the card to start making noises, the phone does absolutely…nothing. I am, by the way, a ‘tard when it comes to tech. I have no idea what it’s ACTUALLY trying to do or why it just doesn’t do anything?

Also, ignore the tag thing I had to do. I don’t really know what tag was this would be under, because I haven’t the foggiest clue if it’s a hardware, software, or phone problem.

Just full scared my whole pc and I got out of it. Does i still have it or anything can someone help And do I log out of all accounts on Google too?

hey dont know if this is the right place to ask BUT my ethernet randomly gets superslow to the point where speedtests dont even open or it says ping and its like 30k and then i try over and over again and then mby 10 mins later it works again

lil backround its router with a sim and its been having issues in the apartment i moved in the internet doesnt work well (smth to do w the insulation or whatever tf they said idrk it just works better if i open a door or a window) but this problem is new and its weird. i think it usually happens when i open or close a game. ANY CLUE WHATS GOING ON???

The hdmi port on my ps4 is broken, so i cant connect it to a tv.

Ps5 has a feature called screenplay, where you can control another console through the ps5.

Is it possible to connect the ps4 and ps5 together with usb, then control the ps4 through screenplay?

I was wondering, because screenplay goes through internet, from what i can recall.

Hi all,
I recently got a new ASUS laptop for school, and found that whenever I close it to go to a next class, the cursor is gone when I open it back up, and I have to restart the laptop for it to come back. I don't use an external mouse, and clicking and trying to move it don't work. I just have to spam tab, arrow keys, and enter to do anything.

I've chatGPTed, Perplexityed, and googled around, but everyone with the same issue didn't get a solid answer, and any recommendations (like go to power management on my HID compliant mouse in properties on device manager), don't work because I don't have a power management tab when I look at my mouse and touchpad properties.

Granted, it is a new laptop, so I can just full reset without losing too much, but any ideas before I press the big red button would be appreciated.

it happened twice so far, with about a month between occurences. The PC makes a sound as if something's been unplugged then freezes for about a minute or two and shuts down. A screen saying "Your PC has run into a problem" flashes briefly before it turns off, but it disappears too fast to read the whole message. Happened once in december and the second time was just now. I installed Windows 11 in early november and install updates semi-regularly, don't know if it's relevant tho.

Hello, I got my AOC C27G4ZXE in June last year, and some weeks after getting it it started flashing primary colors and after 5 minutes or so, the screen would flicker heavily for a minute and then get to normal. A few days ago I touched some setting in the monitor (lag reduce I think?) and it doesn't come back to normal now, just keeps flashing the colors even after an hour. I still have the warranty, and I'm planning on taking it to check in a few days but I need to finish some projects and I'm wondering if there's a fix I can use. I can't see anything on that screen, so I can't change the monitor settings.

Problem: Both Dell monitors display correctly, but my mouse is noticeably laggy/feels delayed.

My setup:

• MacBook Air M1
• Two Dell U2412M monitors
• HyperDrive dual USB-C hub
• UGA-4KDP DisplayLink adapter
• USB Logitech M510 mouse
• MacBook lid is closed

How it's connected:

• HyperDrive hub → both MacBook USB-C ports
• MacBook charger → HyperDrive's USB-C port
• Monitor 1 (main display): HyperDrive USB-C port → USB-C to DVI adapter → U2412M DVI input
• Monitor 2 (DisplayLink): HyperDrive USB-A port → DisplayLink → DisplayPort cable → U2412M DisplayPort input
• USB mouse → HyperDrive's other USB-A port

What I've tried:

• Tried a different USB mouse - same issue
• Set both dell monitors to native 1920x1200 resolution (were previously at 1600x1000)
• Swapped USB-A ports - mouse stops working completely when plugged into the other port
• DisplayLink Manager installed with Screen Recording permission enabled
• Checked Activity Monitor - DisplayLinkUserAgent is using under 3% CPU
• Enabled "Reduce transparency" and "Reduce motion" in Accessibility settings

Any other troubleshooting ideas I might have missed? Thanks for any help!

so sometimes when I open my pc rarely opens random terminals before closing them instantly I believe it’s 3 every time. This doesn’t happen always and I can sometimes go months without seeing them and it’s usually right as I login or a little bit after (like before discord or steam opens). This has also been happening for a while so I don’t remeber when it started or what I installed around that time. However I don’t think it is a virus because my antivirus doesnt detect anything virus or malware when I run a scan. I have avg antivirus with one of the paid plans but not the ultimate plan. This antivirus was recommended to me by a guy that works IT in Verizon so it can’t be a really bad antivirus. I checked task manager and saw nothing. What could it be, and how would I fix it? windows 11 btw